[thedukeofhamilton]

I have a 5 gal batch of Belgian Saison that's finishing off fermentation in a DIY Home Depot bucket primary with a spigot. I'm looking to minimize oxidation and had an idea.

My bucket lid has one of these flex spouts: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/e-hofmann-plastics-19l-5-gallon-white-gasket-and-flex-spout-lid/1000784936

Instead of transferring to my bottling bucket (where I first add my dissolved priming sugar solution), I'm thinking of adding the solution directly to my primary via the flex spout (via a funnel and hose).  Then bottle directly from the primary's spigot.

How silly is this idea?

[Richard]

I have a 5 gal batch of Belgian Saison that's finishing off fermentation in a DIY Home Depot bucket primary with a spigot. I'm looking to minimize oxidation and had an idea.

My bucket lid has one of these flex spouts: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/e-hofmann-plastics-19l-5-gallon-white-gasket-and-flex-spout-lid/1000784936

Instead of transferring to my bottling bucket (where I first add my dissolved priming sugar solution), I'm thinking of adding the solution directly to my primary via the flex spout (via a funnel and hose).  Then bottle directly from the primary's spigot.

How silly is this idea?

It is a day early to post silly ideas. I considered this but could never figure out how to mix the sugar solution adequately without stirring up the yeast layer at the bottom of the fermenter. I do a cold crash to get all the yeast compacted into a dense layer at the bottom and I don't want to agitate that. If you can find a way to sitr the wort without disturbing the bottom layer in your bucket then it will work fine.

[Bob357]

How do you propose getting the priming sugar well mixed into the beer without stirring up most of the sediment? If you're light handed you risk inconsistent distribution and the possibility of bottle bombs. If you're aggressive, you might well introduce more oxygen than you would by carefully transferring to a bottling bucket. Though many are far from ideal, there are reasons that traditional procedures have been followed for decades.

[RC]

Not silly at all.

You definitely need to mix/stir the beer after adding the priming solution, no question. But I think you can gently stir it without mixing up too much sediment. Also, when you stir the beer, this will breakout some of the CO2 and provide some measure of positive pressure coming out of the opening. This will possibly, slightly protect against O2 ingress. Stirring via that small opening in the lid seems better than transferring to a bottling bucket.

Dump in the solution. Put in long stirring spoon (gently) and touch the bottom. Then raise it ~2 inches and gently swirl the beer for maybe 30 seconds. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes, then start bottling. You could probably be a little aggressive about stirring; CO2 breakout is your friend here.

Any yeast stirred up should settle in those 5 minutes. Even if it doesn't, getting excess yeast in the bottle is not a problem. What you definitely don't want is excess priming sugar in a bottle.

[Megary]

Why not just prime the bottles and fill them from the spigot?  The carbonation drops work well.  Super simple.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/carbonation-drops-60-pieces.html

[thedukeofhamilton]

I agree carbonation drops are probably the best option for this scenario. I've only done batch priming using weight-based calculations to tailor CO2 volume for a given beer style. I'll trade off CO2 precision over oxidation any day. FWIW, I use heavy-gauge flip-top bottles so I can probably get away with rounding up, as far as CO2 volume is concerned.

Given I'm currently working with a kit that came with a packet of priming sugar, I'm simply debating the lesser of two evils between oxidation using a traditional batch priming method and the potential for inconsistent priming and yeast disturbance with this alternative approach.

Thank you for the feedback.

[thedukeofhamilton]

FWIW, I also came across this in my research:

f you're doing something like a hazy/NEIPA you're pretty much dead in the water if you don't bottle from the fermenter. I'm not even convinced that is really going to save you that much oxygen exposure unless you've got a CO2 source hooked up to the top of the fermenter as it drains.

[thedukeofhamilton]

Here's another thought I had, as an alternative to a bottling bucket.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bag-in-box

Add the priming solution first, then transfer from the primary spigot (or autosiphon). I realize the headspace from the primary will draw oxygen from the top unless further steps are taken, but it's a step in the right direction (towards a keg setup, most likely).

I got the idea from this: https://youtu.be/5bESbhGRnH4?t=179

[kramerog]

I have a 5 gal batch of Belgian Saison that's finishing off fermentation in a DIY Home Depot bucket primary with a spigot. I'm looking to minimize oxidation and had an idea.

My bucket lid has one of these flex spouts: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/e-hofmann-plastics-19l-5-gallon-white-gasket-and-flex-spout-lid/1000784936

Instead of transferring to my bottling bucket (where I first add my dissolved priming sugar solution), I'm thinking of adding the solution directly to my primary via the flex spout (via a funnel and hose).  Then bottle directly from the primary's spigot.

How silly is this idea?

I think this can work. I have independently come to the conclusion that you got to do whatever it takes to avoid bottling buckets, but mostly I keg nowadays. A lot of yeasts, particularly the British ones, drop out and resist being stirred up so I think you gently swirl the bucket  without stirring up the bottom a ton. Before adding the sugar solution, I would get a swirl going and then slowly add the solution to avoid the solution sinking to the bottom and then swirl some more. Let us know what happens.

Another tip is that you can use a mylar balloon (used to avoid suck back of fermentation lock solution and O2 during crash cooling) to reduce exposure to O2 during bottle filling (you can suck Co2 from the balloon rather than air for part of the bottle filling operation. Google it for a better explanation of how that works.

[erockrph]

Not silly at all.

You definitely need to mix/stir the beer after adding the priming solution, no question. But I think you can gently stir it without mixing up too much sediment. Also, when you stir the beer, this will breakout some of the CO2 and provide some measure of positive pressure coming out of the opening. This will possibly, slightly protect against O2 ingress. Stirring via that small opening in the lid seems better than transferring to a bottling bucket.

Dump in the solution. Put in long stirring spoon (gently) and touch the bottom. Then raise it ~2 inches and gently swirl the beer for maybe 30 seconds. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes, then start bottling. You could probably be a little aggressive about stirring; CO2 breakout is your friend here.

Any yeast stirred up should settle in those 5 minutes. Even if it doesn't, getting excess yeast in the bottle is not a problem. What you definitely don't want is excess priming sugar in a bottle.

Something to keep in mind is that you will probably need more priming sugar than calculated in this scenario, since you will be knocking out a fair amount of the existing carbonation in the beer. It would be hard to calculate an exact amount without trial and error - and you would need consistency in your stirring time and vigor to dial this in.

If the OP is that concerned about O2 ingress, it's probably better to just use carb drops or some other priming directly in the bottle.

[reverseapachemaster]

Yeah I don't think you'll get an even mix of the priming sugar across the bottles. If you're worried about racking to another bucket you could dose individual bottles.

[fredthecat]

i was always concerned about plastic types when using plastic carboys and other parts.

i may be wrong, and you may have the "food safe" variety, but just for anyone's edification:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/2moi24/are_home_depot_buckets_really_safe_to_brew_in/

the plastic type should be marked on the underside of the bucket, and as the first reply says here, unless a thing is explicitly labelled "food safe", you may assume it is potentially not.

[Semper Sitientem]

i was always concerned about plastic types when using plastic carboys and other parts.

i may be wrong, and you may have the "food safe" variety, but just for anyone's edification:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/2moi24/are_home_depot_buckets_really_safe_to_brew_in/

the plastic type should be marked on the underside of the bucket, and as the first reply says here, unless a thing is explicitly labelled "food safe", you may assume it is potentially not.

“Homer buckets (Home Depot) are great for storing grain (orange). Also the blue buckets from Lowes are good for grain storage.”

This statement from the Reddit thread should not be followed. All food items should be stored in food safe containers.

[redrocker652002]

Why not just prime the bottles and fill them from the spigot?  The carbonation drops work well.  Super simple.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/carbonation-drops-60-pieces.html

I second the use of these drops.  I have used them a total of 3 times and they have worked really well.