[myh3adhur7s]

So my old Keezer died recently Which was a very sad day in my house cause it was before labor day and we had people coming over. Well now back to my point.

The old Keezer had the taps coming out of the top. But the new new freezer to be comverted is going to have a 2 by 6 board all the way around to put the taps thru the front. But my issue is on how to mount the extension to the base of the freezer. I need ideas to keep it there safe and sound and secure with the weigh of the lid hinged to it.

Ideas and suggestions would be nice.
I will be posting up images of the construction

John Kaminski

[Robert]

Set the lid up so the bottom two screw holes on the hinges screw into the back of the original freezer's top two screw holes, then use the top screw holes in the hinges and attach them to the collar. After that, a bead of caulk should hold it down tight.

Please disregard my repeated use of "screw holes"

edit: just saw you're using 2X6. I used 2X4 and this was no problem. Not sure if extra height might affect this.

Last edit, I swear:

Pic

[tschmidlin]

I used 2 stacked 2x4s and the hinges didn't reach.  So I got some tie plates from home depot, you can find them near the joist hangers.  Like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhi/R-100375037/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

The holes in the plate lined up well enough with the holes left from the hinges, so I used the plates to hold the collar to the freezer, then attached the hinges to the collar.  I can post a pick Sunday if that is confusing.

[dbeechum]

Build the collar so that it has an interior and exterior board. The collar then effectively seals to the freezer by sitting slightly down over the lip.

You can then mount the lid hinge full tilt to the collar. The combination of the lid weight and collar sitting over both edges keeps everything sealed tight.

[myh3adhur7s]

So the primary work is done on my keezer. It is in working condition and is awesome. Which surprised me is that I had no problems In the construction and insulation.  Stage two will start once i get the sheet metal in for the visual appeal of it. Then I will post up the pictures of the finished work.

But at the moment I am back to enjoying my brews on tap.

Thanks to all for help that has been given. And i can't wait to read responses to my first true keezer build.

next build all grain setup.

[Hydro]

I used SIMPSON STRONG-TIE 7 in. Z-MAX 16-Gauge Steel L-Angle, one each corner holding the collar to the keezer.

http://www.homedepot.com/SIMPSON-5yc1vZ1xg1Z3yf/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg1Z3yf/R-100375233/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


SIMPSON STRONG-TIE Galvanized 20-Gauge Steel Lateral Tie Plate, on the left and right side of the collar.  Holding the collar to the keezer.

http://www.homedepot.com/SIMPSON-5yc1vZ1xg1Z3yf/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg1Z3yf/R-100375233/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Yes, I probably over engineered the support of the collar, although that is what I do any time I build something. 

Painted the 2 x 6 collar Appliance White to match Keezer color.   Added 1/2 inch thick solid core foam insulation to the inside of the 2 x 6 collar to help with temperature stabalization.   Used 2 inch wide tape to cover over the top edged of the collar.

Works great holds 6 cornie kegs, a regulator for each cornie mounted on the inside of the back wall on the collar, with 6 tap handles on the front of keezer.  I am useing a 20 lb CO2 Aluminum bottle setting outside of the keezer on the floor with a quick disconnect.

For the Love of Beer,
Robert