[BrewBama]

… For years with much cooler system, for instance, I averaged 80+ % efficiency …

This is my point which is why I suggested the OP look into troubleshooting. I get 70+% — 27 ppg —No Sparge. He sparged twice and got 70%. BIAB should get better efficiency than that shouldn’t it?

@OP: I recommend reviewing Chap 18 of Palmer’s How to Brew. I especially recommend looking at your grain milling.


*Disclaimer*: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV

[denny]

… For years with much cooler system, for instance, I averaged 80+ % efficiency …

This is my point which is why I suggested the OP look into troubleshooting. I get 70+% — 27 ppg —No Sparge. He sparged twice and got 70%. BIAB should get better efficiency than that shouldn’t it?

@OP: I recommend reviewing Chap 18 of Palmer’s How to Brew. I especially recommend looking at your grain milling.


*Disclaimer*: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV

I don't know if BIAB should necessarily get better efficiency than that.  Especially with dunk sparging.

[Megary]

I BIAB full volume mash in a kettle.  Dunk the grains, pull the bag, a little squeeze to hit volume, discard the grains.  I do NOT sparge, rinse, or re-dunk.  I do grind the living tar out of the grains.

I'll get anywhere from 72-75% like clockwork.

A very fine grain crush helped me improve efficiency.

I believe that mashing in with a larger volume of water will also help with BIAB efficiency, if your kettle allows.

[BrewBama]

I BIAB full volume mash in a kettle.  Dunk the grains, pull the bag, a little squeeze to hit volume, discard the grains.  I do NOT sparge, rinse, or re-dunk.  I do grind the living tar out of the grains.

I'll get anywhere from 72-75% like clockwork.

A very fine grain crush helped me improve efficiency.

I believe that mashing in with a larger volume of water will also help with BIAB efficiency, if your kettle allows.

^^ This is what I’m thinking. 72-75% No Sparge BIAB.

[erockrph]

I BIAB full volume mash in a kettle.  Dunk the grains, pull the bag, a little squeeze to hit volume, discard the grains.  I do NOT sparge, rinse, or re-dunk.  I do grind the living tar out of the grains.

I'll get anywhere from 72-75% like clockwork.

A very fine grain crush helped me improve efficiency.

I believe that mashing in with a larger volume of water will also help with BIAB efficiency, if your kettle allows.

^^ This is what I’m thinking. 72-75% No Sparge BIAB.

I was getting around 78% in my old no-sparge system. If you can use your full volume of brewing liquor it definitely helps with efficiency.

[tommymorris]

… For years with much cooler system, for instance, I averaged 80+ % efficiency …

This is my point which is why I suggested the OP look into troubleshooting. I get 70+% — 27 ppg —No Sparge. He sparged twice and got 70%. BIAB should get better efficiency than that shouldn’t it?

@OP: I recommend reviewing Chap 18 of Palmer’s How to Brew. I especially recommend looking at your grain milling.


*Disclaimer*: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV

I don't know if BIAB should necessarily get better efficiency than that.  Especially with dunk sparging.

I get 83-85% efficiency based on the OG and volume in the boil kettle at the end of boil. My process is mash in a bag plus a single dunk sparge. It is essentially a batch sparge operation, but since the mash is in a bag in my kettle and the dunk is in a bag in a separate vessel, I usually refer to it as BIAB.

In this thread, I have never been clear what volume the OP is using for his efficiency calculations and I have never been clear if he has discarded trub and taken other losses before that efficiency calculation or after. My point is 70% is not so bad if it is calculated after a bunch of losses (then we are talking something more akin to brew house efficiency- I think a BeerSmith term).

[redrocker652002]

All great info, thanks fo all who replied.  I will see what I can answer here.  I think, and I am at work, so I might be a bit off, but my mash water was somewhere near 5 gallons (this is per Brewfather) and then I followed up with 2 8 liter dunks for about 10 mins each.  I checked on the beer this morning and gave it a regular hydrometer reading and it seems my Ispindel was pretty much spot on.  So, I moved the bucket to the counter, checked the Ispindel, resanitized everything and put it back in the closet.  The last batch I had, when I moved it to the counter it started bubbling again and kicked the fermenting into gear.  Does not appear that this is going to happen with this one.  I will say, that while I was doing the dunks of the grains, I had the burner set pretty low so maybe the wort in the pot cooled off a bit?  I am toying with adding more yeast, maybe my starter wasn't right.  But all I have is BRY97 and S05, and I used WLP001 initially.  Would that hurt anything if I mix the yeast like that? 

So, what you are all saying is use full volume, ie about 6.5 gallons of water in the mash?  I can try that with my next batch.  I am disappointed, but not bummed out completely.  This is my second or third attempt at a BIAB and I am still getting the hang uf it.  Maybe the second dunk did something?  In the last 2, I poured 170 degree water over the grain back and into the boil kettle and that worked out ok,maybe I should go back to that.  Either way, I appreciate all the info and suggestions.  I will get this right eventually.  LOL

[redrocker652002]

… For years with much cooler system, for instance, I averaged 80+ % efficiency …

This is my point which is why I suggested the OP look into troubleshooting. I get 70+% — 27 ppg —No Sparge. He sparged twice and got 70%. BIAB should get better efficiency than that shouldn’t it?

@OP: I recommend reviewing Chap 18 of Palmer’s How to Brew. I especially recommend looking at your grain milling.


*Disclaimer*: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV

I don't know why I think this, but I think you might be right about the milling.  Next round I am going to try and see if I can get the local MoreBeer to mill my grains a bit finer and see what happens. 

[tommymorris]

All great info, thanks fo all who replied.  I will see what I can answer here.  I think, and I am at work, so I might be a bit off, but my mash water was somewhere near 5 gallons (this is per Brewfather) and then I followed up with 2 8 liter dunks for about 10 mins each.  I checked on the beer this morning and gave it a regular hydrometer reading and it seems my Ispindel was pretty much spot on.  So, I moved the bucket to the counter, checked the Ispindel, resanitized everything and put it back in the closet.  The last batch I had, when I moved it to the counter it started bubbling again and kicked the fermenting into gear.  Does not appear that this is going to happen with this one.  I will say, that while I was doing the dunks of the grains, I had the burner set pretty low so maybe the wort in the pot cooled off a bit?  I am toying with adding more yeast, maybe my starter wasn't right.  But all I have is BRY97 and S05, and I used WLP001 initially.  Would that hurt anything if I mix the yeast like that? 

So, what you are all saying is use full volume, ie about 6.5 gallons of water in the mash?  I can try that with my next batch.  I am disappointed, but not bummed out completely.  This is my second or third attempt at a BIAB and I am still getting the hang uf it.  Maybe the second dunk did something?  In the last 2, I poured 170 degree water over the grain back and into the boil kettle and that worked out ok,maybe I should go back to that.  Either way, I appreciate all the info and suggestions.  I will get this right eventually.  LOL

If the fermentation has stalled, it is probably not related to your mash volume or sparge. You said you had 1052-1054 OG so your mash worked fine.

I doubt adding more yeast would help at this point. However, all the ones you have are very similar to one another.

I don’t know why fermentation would have stalled. Nothing in this thread makes me think it would. 

[redrocker652002]

All great info, thanks fo all who replied.  I will see what I can answer here.  I think, and I am at work, so I might be a bit off, but my mash water was somewhere near 5 gallons (this is per Brewfather) and then I followed up with 2 8 liter dunks for about 10 mins each.  I checked on the beer this morning and gave it a regular hydrometer reading and it seems my Ispindel was pretty much spot on.  So, I moved the bucket to the counter, checked the Ispindel, resanitized everything and put it back in the closet.  The last batch I had, when I moved it to the counter it started bubbling again and kicked the fermenting into gear.  Does not appear that this is going to happen with this one.  I will say, that while I was doing the dunks of the grains, I had the burner set pretty low so maybe the wort in the pot cooled off a bit?  I am toying with adding more yeast, maybe my starter wasn't right.  But all I have is BRY97 and S05, and I used WLP001 initially.  Would that hurt anything if I mix the yeast like that? 

So, what you are all saying is use full volume, ie about 6.5 gallons of water in the mash?  I can try that with my next batch.  I am disappointed, but not bummed out completely.  This is my second or third attempt at a BIAB and I am still getting the hang uf it.  Maybe the second dunk did something?  In the last 2, I poured 170 degree water over the grain back and into the boil kettle and that worked out ok,maybe I should go back to that.  Either way, I appreciate all the info and suggestions.  I will get this right eventually.  LOL

If the fermentation has stalled, it is probably not related to your mash volume or sparge. You said you had 1052-1054 OG so your mash worked fine.

I doubt adding more yeast would help at this point. However, all the ones you have are very similar to one another.

I don’t know why fermentation would have stalled. Nothing in this thread makes me think it would.

Thank you for saying that.  I thought the same once I changed my efficiency number in Brewfather to 70% it matched up with what my hydrometer and Ispindel said and I was feeling pretty good about that.  I am going to just let it be.  Might bottle it just for the heck of it and see how it tastes.  Who knows, might still be drinkable.  LOL..

Anyway, thank you for the encouragement, I still have my doubts on whether this is something I should be doing, but I am in it now, so let's rock   LOL.
RR

[tommymorris]

All great info, thanks fo all who replied.  I will see what I can answer here.  I think, and I am at work, so I might be a bit off, but my mash water was somewhere near 5 gallons (this is per Brewfather) and then I followed up with 2 8 liter dunks for about 10 mins each.  I checked on the beer this morning and gave it a regular hydrometer reading and it seems my Ispindel was pretty much spot on.  So, I moved the bucket to the counter, checked the Ispindel, resanitized everything and put it back in the closet.  The last batch I had, when I moved it to the counter it started bubbling again and kicked the fermenting into gear.  Does not appear that this is going to happen with this one.  I will say, that while I was doing the dunks of the grains, I had the burner set pretty low so maybe the wort in the pot cooled off a bit?  I am toying with adding more yeast, maybe my starter wasn't right.  But all I have is BRY97 and S05, and I used WLP001 initially.  Would that hurt anything if I mix the yeast like that? 

So, what you are all saying is use full volume, ie about 6.5 gallons of water in the mash?  I can try that with my next batch.  I am disappointed, but not bummed out completely.  This is my second or third attempt at a BIAB and I am still getting the hang uf it.  Maybe the second dunk did something?  In the last 2, I poured 170 degree water over the grain back and into the boil kettle and that worked out ok,maybe I should go back to that.  Either way, I appreciate all the info and suggestions.  I will get this right eventually.  LOL

If the fermentation has stalled, it is probably not related to your mash volume or sparge. You said you had 1052-1054 OG so your mash worked fine.

I doubt adding more yeast would help at this point. However, all the ones you have are very similar to one another.

I don’t know why fermentation would have stalled. Nothing in this thread makes me think it would.

Thank you for saying that.  I thought the same once I changed my efficiency number in Brewfather to 70% it matched up with what my hydrometer and Ispindel said and I was feeling pretty good about that.  I am going to just let it be.  Might bottle it just for the heck of it and see how it tastes.  Who knows, might still be drinkable.  LOL..

Anyway, thank you for the encouragement, I still have my doubts on whether this is something I should be doing, but I am in it now, so let's rock   LOL.
RR

I wouldn’t bottle 1.028 beer. It might explode if it starts fermenting again. Maybe it give a couple of swirls (lean it over on the edge of the fermenter and swirl it it around good several times) while it is all sealed up to get yeast back into suspension and see what happens over the next few days.

[redrocker652002]

All great info, thanks fo all who replied.  I will see what I can answer here.  I think, and I am at work, so I might be a bit off, but my mash water was somewhere near 5 gallons (this is per Brewfather) and then I followed up with 2 8 liter dunks for about 10 mins each.  I checked on the beer this morning and gave it a regular hydrometer reading and it seems my Ispindel was pretty much spot on.  So, I moved the bucket to the counter, checked the Ispindel, resanitized everything and put it back in the closet.  The last batch I had, when I moved it to the counter it started bubbling again and kicked the fermenting into gear.  Does not appear that this is going to happen with this one.  I will say, that while I was doing the dunks of the grains, I had the burner set pretty low so maybe the wort in the pot cooled off a bit?  I am toying with adding more yeast, maybe my starter wasn't right.  But all I have is BRY97 and S05, and I used WLP001 initially.  Would that hurt anything if I mix the yeast like that? 

So, what you are all saying is use full volume, ie about 6.5 gallons of water in the mash?  I can try that with my next batch.  I am disappointed, but not bummed out completely.  This is my second or third attempt at a BIAB and I am still getting the hang uf it.  Maybe the second dunk did something?  In the last 2, I poured 170 degree water over the grain back and into the boil kettle and that worked out ok,maybe I should go back to that.  Either way, I appreciate all the info and suggestions.  I will get this right eventually.  LOL

If the fermentation has stalled, it is probably not related to your mash volume or sparge. You said you had 1052-1054 OG so your mash worked fine.

I doubt adding more yeast would help at this point. However, all the ones you have are very similar to one another.

I don’t know why fermentation would have stalled. Nothing in this thread makes me think it would.

Thank you for saying that.  I thought the same once I changed my efficiency number in Brewfather to 70% it matched up with what my hydrometer and Ispindel said and I was feeling pretty good about that.  I am going to just let it be.  Might bottle it just for the heck of it and see how it tastes.  Who knows, might still be drinkable.  LOL..

Anyway, thank you for the encouragement, I still have my doubts on whether this is something I should be doing, but I am in it now, so let's rock   LOL.
RR

I wouldn’t bottle 1.028 beer. It might explode if it starts fermenting again. Maybe it give a couple of swirls (lean it over on the edge of the fermenter and swirl it it around good several times) while it is all sealed up to get yeast back into suspension and see what happens over the next few days.

I'll try that in the morning.   If it doesn't come down, then should I just toss it?  Or leave it go and brew something else?  I have another fermenter bucket I can use. 

[BrewBama]

… I am going to try and see if I can get the local MoreBeer to mill my grains a bit finer and see what happens.

If your milling is done by a brew shop I suspect this is your smoking gun. They have to mill for a spectrum of customers who brew on a variety of systems. BIABers are notorious for the fine grind they use.  Maybe they will adjust the mill for you.

Anytime I’ve made a system or process change it has taken several brewdays to work out the kinks. Once you work this one out you’ll be on cruise control.


*Disclaimer*: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV

[redrocker652002]

… I am going to try and see if I can get the local MoreBeer to mill my grains a bit finer and see what happens.

If your milling is done by a brew shop I suspect this is your smoking gun. They have to mill for a spectrum of customers who brew on a variety of systems. BIABers are notorious for the fine grind they use.  Maybe they will adjust the mill for you.

Anytime I’ve made a system or process change it has taken several brewdays to work out the kinks. Once you work this one out you’ll be on cruise control.


*Disclaimer*: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV

I have been ordering my stuff either from Morebeer or Austin Home Brewing Supplies.  One of them replied, and I don't remember which, saying that did not do special grinds.  I have found a few homebrewers near me.  I might see if I can find a used one either on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace. 

Thank you for your input. I think the grain is the first place to start and go from there. 

[tommymorris]

All great info, thanks fo all who replied.  I will see what I can answer here.  I think, and I am at work, so I might be a bit off, but my mash water was somewhere near 5 gallons (this is per Brewfather) and then I followed up with 2 8 liter dunks for about 10 mins each.  I checked on the beer this morning and gave it a regular hydrometer reading and it seems my Ispindel was pretty much spot on.  So, I moved the bucket to the counter, checked the Ispindel, resanitized everything and put it back in the closet.  The last batch I had, when I moved it to the counter it started bubbling again and kicked the fermenting into gear.  Does not appear that this is going to happen with this one.  I will say, that while I was doing the dunks of the grains, I had the burner set pretty low so maybe the wort in the pot cooled off a bit?  I am toying with adding more yeast, maybe my starter wasn't right.  But all I have is BRY97 and S05, and I used WLP001 initially.  Would that hurt anything if I mix the yeast like that? 

So, what you are all saying is use full volume, ie about 6.5 gallons of water in the mash?  I can try that with my next batch.  I am disappointed, but not bummed out completely.  This is my second or third attempt at a BIAB and I am still getting the hang uf it.  Maybe the second dunk did something?  In the last 2, I poured 170 degree water over the grain back and into the boil kettle and that worked out ok,maybe I should go back to that.  Either way, I appreciate all the info and suggestions.  I will get this right eventually.  LOL

If the fermentation has stalled, it is probably not related to your mash volume or sparge. You said you had 1052-1054 OG so your mash worked fine.

I doubt adding more yeast would help at this point. However, all the ones you have are very similar to one another.

I don’t know why fermentation would have stalled. Nothing in this thread makes me think it would.

Thank you for saying that.  I thought the same once I changed my efficiency number in Brewfather to 70% it matched up with what my hydrometer and Ispindel said and I was feeling pretty good about that.  I am going to just let it be.  Might bottle it just for the heck of it and see how it tastes.  Who knows, might still be drinkable.  LOL..

Anyway, thank you for the encouragement, I still have my doubts on whether this is something I should be doing, but I am in it now, so let's rock   LOL.
RR

I wouldn’t bottle 1.028 beer. It might explode if it starts fermenting again. Maybe it give a couple of swirls (lean it over on the edge of the fermenter and swirl it it around good several times) while it is all sealed up to get yeast back into suspension and see what happens over the next few days.

I'll try that in the morning.   If it doesn't come down, then should I just toss it?  Or leave it go and brew something else?  I have another fermenter bucket I can use.

I don’t know. I guess you have time to seek other opinions. Has it moved at all?