Author Topic: Keezer hardware questions  (Read 263 times)

Offline Joe_Beer

  • Brewer
  • ****
  • Posts: 323
Keezer hardware questions
« on: September 12, 2022, 02:37:19 pm »
The keezer is coming along but I have some questions on EVABarrier tubing, the Duotight fittings and other hardware...


 


I didn't want to take out a loan for lumber so I used some MDF I had laying around. I put a few coats of polyurethane on it to give it some moisture resistance but it's not building up a coating like it does on hardwood so not sure how effective that's going to be. Anyone know of some good wrap or tape to use for this?

Collar: I've seen some really odd methods for attaching the collar to the freezer (drywall screws through the wood, into the plastic surface for instance). One guy mentioned gorilla tape which I like because the collar can be replaced easily enough without having to fight with Liquid Nails. Any thoughts?

Tubing: I've had people here recommend the EVABarrier tubing. I ran it through a calculator and the difference in recommended length between 4mm and 5mm ID tubing is about 6 feet. I'd like to have less tubing to fight with so the smaller diameter is ideal. Is it typical to use 4mm x 8mm tubing for the beer? It looks like all the Duotight connectors with with 8mm OD tubing. Do you use the same tubing for the CO2 or should that be a different size?

Beer shank: Are these all created equal or do I need a specific shank for a specific faucet? I have Intertap faucets. On the other end, I need something for the Duotight tubing. I see there is an 8mm fitting for this that has a "beer thread". Is "beer thread" an industry standard everyone uses for the other end of these shanks?

manifold: I have an aluminum CO2 manifold with gas barbs on it but not sure how to make that work for Duotight tubing. I'll have maybe four kegs to gas up. How are you guys running gas to multiple kegs with this Duotight stuff?

Air circulation: Anyone using a fan in their keezer to keep the air moving around? I've read mixed opinions on using them but it seems the fan speed is a key detail that not everyone gets right. My kegerator has a definite temperature gradient every foot or so but the top of the keg always seems like the same temp as the bottom.

Ball lock disconnects: Duotight seems like the obvious choice. Anyone using something different?

Offline Wilbur

  • Brewmaster
  • *****
  • Posts: 861
Re: Keezer hardware questions
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2022, 04:40:45 pm »
Shanks-Beer thread connects to shanks, and connects to sanke D taps as well

Manifold-My manifold had 1/4 NPT fittings, so I used this adapter:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/duotight-pushin-fitting-8-mm-516-14-mpt.html

QD-I'd recommend getting the flow control ball locks that are compatible with duotight. They seem to work really well, even with short lines.
https://www.morebeer.com/products/duotight-flow-control-ball-lock-quick-disconnect-qd-beverage-8-mm.html


Offline Richard

  • Brewmaster
  • *****
  • Posts: 803
Re: Keezer hardware questions
« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2022, 04:51:06 pm »

Tubing: I've had people here recommend the EVABarrier tubing. I ran it through a calculator and the difference in recommended length between 4mm and 5mm ID tubing is about 6 feet. I'd like to have less tubing to fight with so the smaller diameter is ideal. Is it typical to use 4mm x 8mm tubing for the beer? It looks like all the Duotight connectors with with 8mm OD tubing. Do you use the same tubing for the CO2 or should that be a different size?

manifold: I have an aluminum CO2 manifold with gas barbs on it but not sure how to make that work for Duotight tubing. I'll have maybe four kegs to gas up. How are you guys running gas to multiple kegs with this Duotight stuff?

I use the 4 mm ID for beer because I don't want to have long lines. You can use the same size tubing for gas as liquid, or use a larger ID if you wish. I actually use the larger OD line for gas, but I'm not sure it is needed. Gas flow is usually not a problem, and pressure drops are not an issue. Using the same size will simplify your selection of parts.

I got a manifold with 1/4" flare outputs and I have a duotight-to-flare fitting on each gas line You may be able to unscrew your barbs from the manifold and screw in flares in their place. If not, you can use a short piece of regular tubing on the barb with a barb-to-flare adapter on the other end. That still leaves you with two barbs and hose clamps at each outlet, which kind of defeats the purpose of going with duotights.

I have ball-lock disconnects with flare connectors and I use the duotight-to-flare firttings on the tubing there, also. If you do it that way and use the same tubing everywhere then all connections are the same. and you only need one kind of fitting.
Original Gravity - that would be Newton's

Offline Joe_Beer

  • Brewer
  • ****
  • Posts: 323
Re: Keezer hardware questions
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2022, 05:04:16 am »
I use the 4 mm ID for beer because I don't want to have long lines. You can use the same size tubing for gas as liquid, or use a larger ID if you wish.

Somewhere I read that the 4mm ID should only be used for carbonated water but there wasn't any reasoning given for it so good to know it's working well for you. I'll start there. The tubing is cheap enough if I want to change it and short lines suck less 👍

I got a manifold with 1/4" flare outputs and I have a duotight-to-flare fitting on each gas line You may be able to unscrew your barbs from the manifold and screw in flares in their place.
...
I have ball-lock disconnects with flare connectors and I use the duotight-to-flare firttings on the tubing there, also. If you do it that way and use the same tubing everywhere then all connections are the same. and you only need one kind of fitting.

I completely missed those fittings on MB so thanks for that! Yeah, keeping the tubing the same size seems like it would make things much simpler.


Offline Slowbrew

  • I spend way too much time on the AHA forum
  • ********
  • Posts: 2822
  • The Slowly Losing IT Brewery in Urbandale, IA
Re: Keezer hardware questions
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2022, 05:24:02 am »
No one has mentioned how they mounted their collar so here's how I did mine.

I made the collar 2 in. taller and made it so it those 2 in. could fit around the outside of the freezer.  The hinges on my lid were long enough that I could screw the very bottom of each hinge into the freezer.  Between the screws on the hinges and the weight of to collar/lid he weather strip installed on the bottom of the collar is compressed and keeps everything tight and solid.  No additional attachments are necessary.

Paul
Where the heck are we going?  And what's with this hand basket?

Offline Joe_Beer

  • Brewer
  • ****
  • Posts: 323
Re: Keezer hardware questions
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2022, 05:24:41 am »
Shanks-Beer thread connects to shanks, and connects to sanke D taps as well

Manifold-My manifold had 1/4 NPT fittings, so I used this adapter:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/duotight-pushin-fitting-8-mm-516-14-mpt.html

QD-I'd recommend getting the flow control ball locks that are compatible with duotight. They seem to work really well, even with short lines.
https://www.morebeer.com/products/duotight-flow-control-ball-lock-quick-disconnect-qd-beverage-8-mm.html

Thanks! Love that flow control on the ball lock. It'll be perfect for turning the pressure down to bottle from the keg. Definitely going with those and the  1/4 NPT adapters.

Offline Joe_Beer

  • Brewer
  • ****
  • Posts: 323
Re: Keezer hardware questions
« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2022, 05:42:03 am »
No one has mentioned how they mounted their collar so here's how I did mine.

I made the collar 2 in. taller and made it so it those 2 in. could fit around the outside of the freezer.

Not obvious in my picture but I have some 3/4" pine that I plan to use to finish the outside of the MDF.  I might have enough width to get about an inch of overlap on the bottom so good to know that might work. Worst case is maybe some gorilla tape run along the edge of the collar and inside of the freezer. Easy enough to undo. I'm not sure how long this MDF will hold up to the humidity.