[denny]

I have often done split batches with two different yeasts. That's a great way to compare the differences that each one makes. You could do that and then blend them a little at a time to see what you get.

Which, IMO, is the best way to do it.

[ScallyWag]

I don't think I have ever blended lager yeasts with ale yeasts, but I have often blended yeasts when targeting specific combinations of characteristics.  My best beers I've made are almost always from yeast blends.  (And less frequently, some of my worst beers too, TBH.)

I've taken some blends out to 5-7 generations, with reasonable consistency.  Some drift quickly, but some stay pretty close to the original blend.  I usually try to match reproductive speed & lag for that reason. 

Do it!  Best case scenario: your best beer ever.  Worst case scenario: probably still a drinkable beer.

[Iliff Ave]

I love it and do it often but never go past it repitch. Some of my best beers have been from blends. Do it and don’t let them talk you out of it.

[MNWayne]

What if you made the most delicious beer on planet earth, but had no way to duplicate it?

[ynotbrusum]

I am no biologist and I certainly appreciate the yeast propigating vendors out there.  Is this blending/grafting akin to the Lallemand Novalager yeast now marketed?  I have had wonderful results with Novalager.  Again - I have no biology background and may be missing the point entirely.  Novalager worked well out to about 8 total re-pitches for me (I quit at that point to brew some ales that I had been holding off brewing to see how well the re-pitched Novalager would go....)

[HopDen]

What if you made the most delicious beer on planet earth, but had no way to duplicate it?

Good question. My thoughts are to use new fresh yeast in the same proportions with the same recipe. If I decide to go with dry yeast I will weigh in grams and if I decide on liquid then I will measure with a graduated syringe. Assuming the final result is satisfactory I will try to replicate. If that too is satisfactory then I will collect a slurry and see how that performs. If that too is satisfactory then collect, repeat, decide. If it is an abject failure then I will tweak ingredients and/or process.


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[chumley]

I'm actually contemplating doing a little yeast blending today. Two weeks ago I brewed 19 gallons of English pale ale and split it with WY1469 West Yorkshire and WY1968 ESB. Today I'm brewing a ~1.075 American IPA with lots of Centennial and Cascade hops, and whatever leftover hops I have in the freezer. that strikes my fancy I'm going to use the yeast cakes of those, plus contemplating adding a packet of BRY-97 to each fermenter. This is likely my last brewing session for a while as I am having knee replacement surgery in August and may as well use those two packets up. Good news is I have 50 gallons of homebrew to see me through my recuperation.

[goose]

My experience is that it is uncontrollable and unpredictable. Personally  I don't like to brew like that.

I like unpredictable. It’s the unknown that may produce a positive outcome, similar to natural selection itself. I will assume that you have tried blending both types of yeast? Which brings me to your own yeast strain. How did you produce it?


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I always shoot for repeatability since I like consistency in my beers from batch to batch.  Although you idea of blending lager and ale strains is intriguing,  it may not be repeatable especially if you re-pitch.  So I tend to agree with Denny on this.  But if it works for you, go for it.  That is what this hobby is all about, trying new things!

The only time I blend yeasts is ale/ale.  I use BE-256 to finish off my Tripel when the Wyeast 3522 peters out near the end of fermentation.  BE-256 gets me the last mile toward my desired FG.

Just my 0.02

[denny]

My experience is that it is uncontrollable and unpredictable. Personally  I don't like to brew like that.

I like unpredictable. It’s the unknown that may produce a positive outcome, similar to natural selection itself. I will assume that you have tried blending both types of yeast? Which brings me to your own yeast strain. How did you produce it?


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I always shoot for repeatability since I like consistency in my beers from batch to batch.  Although you idea of blending lager and ale strains is intriguing,  it may not be repeatable especially if you re-pitch.  So I tend to agree with Denny on this.  But if it works for you, go for it.  That is what this hobby is all about, trying new things!

The only time I blend yeasts is ale/ale.  I use BE-256 to finish off my Tripel when the Wyeast 3522 peters out near the end of fermentation.  BE-256 gets me the last mile toward my desired FG.

Just my 0.02

You've said this before, but I have never had that experience with 3522. It routinely takes my 1.080 Belgian IPA down to around 1.006. I use 2 packs in an SNS starter and pitch while active.

[goose]

My experience is that it is uncontrollable and unpredictable. Personally  I don't like to brew like that.

I like unpredictable. It’s the unknown that may produce a positive outcome, similar to natural selection itself. I will assume that you have tried blending both types of yeast? Which brings me to your own yeast strain. How did you produce it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I always shoot for repeatability since I like consistency in my beers from batch to batch.  Although you idea of blending lager and ale strains is intriguing,  it may not be repeatable especially if you re-pitch.  So I tend to agree with Denny on this.  But if it works for you, go for it.  That is what this hobby is all about, trying new things!

The only time I blend yeasts is ale/ale.  I use BE-256 to finish off my Tripel when the Wyeast 3522 peters out near the end of fermentation.  BE-256 gets me the last mile toward my desired FG.

Just my 0.02

You've said this before, but I have never had that experience with 3522. It routinely takes my 1.080 Belgian IPA down to around 1.006. I use 2 packs in an SNS starter and pitch while active.

Yeah, I know.  Not sure why 3522 peters out on me.  I usually make a 2L starter for a 5 gallon batch using one pack of 3522 and slightly under pitch by about 37B cells (starter calculates to about 379B cells, with 416B cells recommended by Beer Smith).  The yeast ferments down the 80 SG (20 Plato) wort to about 16 SG (4 Plato) and the bubbling stops after about 10 days, which is why I add the BE-256 to get it down to about 1 degree Plato.  I suppose I could increase the starter to 2.5L which would have me over-pitching a bit.  I also make the starter the morning/afternoon before I brew the beer so the cells are active when I pitch the yeast and I have a short lag time.  It's a mystery!