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Ever replace the SS braid in your mashtun?

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woody:
I seem to be losing a larger volume of water in the mash tun lately and while I"m running off it seems to be sucking air once and awhile and bubbling.      Looking at the SS braid in my cooler, its all crimped up right where it meets the hose barb.    Anyone ever replace the braid?    Or would it be better to add a slotted piece of copper tubing inside the braid to keep it open?   
Or any other solutions?   

danwbrews:
That's what I would do if I used a SS braid.  I just use the sloted copper tube and don't worry about it.  After a couple of quarts your wort runs clear ( I do both type sparges, what ever I'm in the mood for). 

dhacker:
To answer your post topic question . . yes, I've replaced the braid in my mash tun . .It's simple and quick, and I did it because I reconfigured my manifold slightly.

Questions for you . . How big is the barb?(diameter) Are you using a single length of braid? How long is the braid? What kind of vessel are you using for your MT?

The thing that causes braid to contract is being stretched. Something is pulling on it to make it pinch at the barb. Perhaps a longer piece of braid would lessen the potential of tug stress. Or make a loop with a "T" to have 2 points for the wort to enter.

woody:
The mash tun is a Coleman xtreme.  The braid is either a six or eight inch.   I think it's a half inch barb

dhacker:
Palmer talks about manifold configurations in his book as it relates to the flow through the grain bed. I suspect you are loosing a fair amount of efficiency as a result of an inadequate manifold. 6 to 8 inches of braid in a Coleman Extreme is pretty meager for efficient pickup. Perhaps someone can reference the section of Palmer's book I'm talking about. I'd suggest either 3 or 4 runs of braid running the length of the cooler's bottom with two "T's" combining into the bulkhead fitting.    

Ah . . here it is.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-1.html

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