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If you listen Brew Strong with Dr. Bamforth he talked a little bit about it (and other things).When you cold condition your beer small particles like haze will drop down.It is better cold condition at 32F for just a few days then at 36F for couple of weeks.http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/572http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/membersarchive/bs_haze110309.mp3
You should transfer the cold beer because if you worm it up some "chill" haze might return.That also goes if you filter your beer.You want to leave all the "gunk" (technical term) in the first vessel.
I cold crash in a keg and suck out the sediment.
I don't know. After keeping it cold for a week or two, I suck it out and the beer is clean and clear, however when the keg is about to kick, some yeast appears (guess they must be on the sides or something)
I am assuming that the yeast that floc to the bottom during crash cooling would resuspend into solution if the beer warms back up. Is this a correct assumption?
To efficiently remove chill haze from a beer you need to chill it as cold as possible w/o freezing it (29-30F), let the haze settle and rack the cold beer off the sediment.