One other word of advice: When you inspect potential fridges, bring at least two kegs so you can measure the height from the crispers, the width across the fridge, and the depth of the fridge. If the kegs can rest on the crispers, the door will close. Also be mindful that you'll need to keep the plastic moulded door part intact. This will be your guide to cut a plastic replacement (Lowe's or Home Depot will have something) and it will also show you where you need to drill the 15-20 screw holes in the door.
Door modifications are the most complicated part of the conversion and be as meticulous as you can when doing these modifications. I usually put the plastic replacement on the door before drilling shank holes. Drill from the outside toward the inside because plastic is forgiving, metal is not. To keep the door closed while tapping, search for a draw hasp. It's the metal clamp you can see at the top left side of the door on the fridge, and it keeps the door closed until you release it. Otherwise, you'll be opening the door when you pull a handle.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I've screwed this process up enough to know how to do it right.