[hiphophead]

im About to put an order into Auber Instruments for this PID http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3 and this SSR http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=30 to go with it to build a heat stick for my newly constructed  RIMS.  but i really have no idea how to wire it up or do anything really with it yet but if theres anything else i need to order in order it get my heatstick going it would be nice to only have to pay for shipping once.  sorry if this is confusing to everyone.  thanks for any input.presion fitting

i guess i will get this guy http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=189&zenid=e76ae95811c786bbca5f4560ba7a3a92 too instead of using a compression fitting

[oscarvan]

Well, I usually let my wife get the heat stick going..... oh no.... I am sorry.....really.....

[onthekeg]

That should do it.  You will just need a box to put the PID in as well as various bits of wire.  There is a download here that shows how to wire it.  It is pretty straight forward.
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Manual%20version%203.4.pdf

[klickcue]

I think that you only need on-off control for application, not PID control.

[dak0415]

I think that you only need on-off control for application, not PID control.

I use my RIMS heater to heat my strike water, then reset the setpoint after I mash-in.  With the SYL-2352, I Set the OUT-H at 100% dring heatup then set OUT-H to 75% to handle the mash. That way the element will never come full-on when there is wort circulating.   PID is much gentler to the mash than on-off as the controller will give the element little kicks to maintain the temperature rather than a reactive ON when the temp drops below setpoint. On-off for the HLT is fine.  I have found the key to successfully maintaining mash temps, even in winter, is a thinner mash (1.5-2 qt/lb) with a couple of handfuls of rice hulls.  Keeping the wort moving fairly quickly through the RIMS plenum is the key to constant temps, so don't mount your element in a 4" tube.  I find 1.5" id to be perfect.