[benamcg]

I inadvertently overchilled my wort (48^o F) when using my Therminator for the first time (that thing is amazing....too amazing).  I brought the carboys into a nice warm room, but fermentation (even with a nice starter) didnt seem to be at the activity level (airlock activity) that I am used to until 36-48 hours in. 

Any issues or off flavors associated with a lag like this? It is an IPA, OG 1.068, plenty hoppy. I would expect that any nasties that may have been in the air would also not be active at that low range.   

[denny]

I don't think you have anything to worry about.

[bluesman]

I don't think you have anything to worry about.

+1

Let it continue to warm up and take a gravity reading when the beer clears. You're probably looking at two weeks in the primary but again check it when it clears and rack it upon terminal gravity.

[majorvices]

I've pitched WLP001 that low and actually had it fermenting at around 52 degrees! I've also chilled down to 45 before and  picthed and raise the temp up to the mid 60s over a couple of days and had no problems what so ever.

[beersk]

Man, I gotta get me one of these Therminators and drill my kettle for a ball valve. 

[Thirsty_Monk]

Man, I gotta get me one of these Therminators and drill my kettle for a ball valve. 

There are also other brands like Duda Diesel that are just little bit less expensive.

[nateo]

IIRC, Noonan recommends chilling the wort to slush if possible, to get the most of your cold break, and then letting it warm up before pitching. So I don't think you can really overchill it, unless it turns into an ice cube.

[corkybstewart]

My normal procedure on most beers is to chill below normal pitching temp and let it warm back uyp slowly.  Lag times are a little longer but that doesn't seem to matter.  This way I can keep the fermentation temps under control easier.

[benamcg]

Man, I gotta get me one of these Therminators and drill my kettle for a ball valve. 

I really struggled with the thought of buying a Therminator-
Therminator= $200,
+ $20 for backflush assembly,
 + 40 for weldless conversion kit
+ $12 for a titanium nitride drill bit (plus the stress of possibly ruining my kettle)
+ $40 in part to build a hop stopper
+ $15 for quick connects
+ $5 for attachments they dont sell (hard to hook a male thread outlet to a male thread on a garden hose)

= in the end......I think it might be the best piece of brewing equipment I have ever owned.  Its truly amazing.