Author Topic: Keg reconditioning  (Read 2243 times)

Online theDarkSide

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #15 on: April 06, 2011, 06:26:35 PM »
Darkside - Why the silicone o-ring on the gas side?  Is it simply to distinguish by color?  Or do you feel there's a performance difference?


You know I copied this from another forum post and didn't realize the person had that in there.  I use the same o-rings for the liquid and gas posts, so I have no idea why that person uses the silicone.  Sorry 'bout that.
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Online Joe Sr.

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #16 on: April 06, 2011, 07:09:42 PM »
No sweat.  I use the buna-n on both sides myself.  Was just curious.

Color coding would be nice, but I don't really need another hundred o-rings...
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Offline oscarvan

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #17 on: April 07, 2011, 06:08:17 PM »
Most kegs have "in" and "out" on the black rubber..... For the ones that don't I labeled the outside with permanent marker.

Parts help, a spare keg is better. A quick transfer from one to the other is better than messing with parts pieces while the beer is in there. An "out" to "out" hose does the trick, push it over with CO2.

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Offline Pinski

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #18 on: April 07, 2011, 06:26:23 PM »
another cautionary tale..... keep in mind that there are many varieties/manufacturers of kegs and many parts are not interchangeable. this is especially true of poppets. so don't stock up too much until you confirm that all your kegs are the same (unlikely).
Interesting, I was under the impression that with Cornies, you either had pin-lock or ball-lock and that either of those types determined what kind of posts and poppets to reconditions with.  Are you saying there are various designs for both pin-lock and ball-lock type assemblies? Does it depend on the manufacturer? 
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Offline tygo

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #19 on: April 07, 2011, 06:39:00 PM »
Are you saying there are various designs for both pin-lock and ball-lock type assemblies? Does it depend on the manufacturer?  

Yes, there are different designs, as I have recently discovered.  Just with ball locks there are a couple of different types of posts and up to four different types of poppets.  

Out of the four ball lock kegs I currently have three use the standard Type B poppet and one is strange.  I have progressively tried Types A and C  with no success.  After pulling off the post and comparing it to some online sources I believe I have one of the older type kegs.  I have the somewhat rare Type D poppets in the mail.  Hopefully I've got the right ones this time.  It's starting to annoy me.
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Online Mark G

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #20 on: April 08, 2011, 04:24:45 AM »
Mark Gres

Offline bluesman

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #21 on: April 08, 2011, 04:34:45 AM »
One of the things that I like do on a regular basis is take the fittings apart for inspection (o-rings, posts, dip tube, etc...) and clean the parts with a hot rinse then a hot soak in PBW solution after use. The keg should then be sanitized, pressurized and pressure tested. When ready to keg the next batch the keg should still be holding pressure.
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Offline oscarvan

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #22 on: April 08, 2011, 04:44:03 AM »
One of the things that I like do on a regular basis is take the fittings apart for inspection (o-rings, posts, dip tube, etc...) and clean the parts with a hot rinse then a hot soak in PBW solution after use. The keg should then be sanitized, pressurized and pressure tested. When ready to keg the next batch the keg should still be holding pressure.

Although I don't disassemble quite often I do something similar. When the keg kicks I rinse and then fill halfway with sanitizer. I have two pieces of hose, one with a pressure connector, one with a liquid connector. I hook an airhose to the pressure side and blow a good amount of sanitizer through the out port, this rinses/sanitizes the pickup tube. Then I store it with air pressure on the sanitizer. When it's kegging time I check to see that it held pressure. Also, I believe storing under pressure keeps everything nice and seated.
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Offline bluesman

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #23 on: April 08, 2011, 05:23:54 AM »
One of the things that I like do on a regular basis is take the fittings apart for inspection (o-rings, posts, dip tube, etc...) and clean the parts with a hot rinse then a hot soak in PBW solution after use. The keg should then be sanitized, pressurized and pressure tested. When ready to keg the next batch the keg should still be holding pressure.

Although I don't disassemble quite often I do something similar. When the keg kicks I rinse and then fill halfway with sanitizer. I have two pieces of hose, one with a pressure connector, one with a liquid connector. I hook an airhose to the pressure side and blow a good amount of sanitizer through the out port, this rinses/sanitizes the pickup tube. Then I store it with air pressure on the sanitizer. When it's kegging time I check to see that it held pressure. Also, I believe storing under pressure keeps everything nice and seated.

This^^^^^^^ is my method of choice.

A clean and sanitized keg is a happy keg.  8)
Ron Price

Offline beersk

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #24 on: April 08, 2011, 07:38:50 AM »
Man, I have a keg that doesn't seal.  It sucks because I basically don't want to use that keg.  It's around the lid; kinda bums me out. 
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Online Joe Sr.

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #25 on: April 08, 2011, 07:56:45 AM »
beersk - here's a previous discussion of a similar situation: http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=6345.0

I don't think we found a bulk source for the wider softer lid o-ring, but there's a link in here to both kegworks and Williams who sell o-rings that are supposed to help seal older, leaky kegs.
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Offline beersk

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #26 on: April 08, 2011, 08:32:08 AM »
Sweet, thanks d00d.  For that O-ring, I need about tree fiddy...
« Last Edit: April 08, 2011, 08:33:59 AM by beersk »
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Offline oscarvan

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Re: Keg reconditioning
« Reply #27 on: April 09, 2011, 01:48:59 AM »
Man, I have a keg that doesn't seal.  It sucks because I basically don't want to use that keg.  It's around the lid; kinda bums me out. 

1 Turn the lid 180º (I have one that will only seal in one position.... there's a black arrow on it now)
if that doesn't help:
2 Check the seal and the lid for obvious defects. Lubricate.
if that doesn't help:
3 Pressurize the keg to 100 psi and let sit for a while to force the seal
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Offline BarleynYeast

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