[morticaixavier]

So Denny has been talking up Munich lately and it gave me an idea. First a little background

I recently brewed a partigyle Barleywine/small beer (bitter) using only pale ale malt that I 'toasted' in the over at 230f for 2 hours. Haven't tasted the barley wine as it is not done primary yet (1.110 so it will be a while before that gets to a bottle). However I can only toast about 5 lbs at a time in my oven and for 1 gallon BW and ~4 gallons Small beer I used 10lbs. Not a big deal, just 2 sessions of toasting. But scale that up to 5 gallons BW and 7 gallons small and we are talking in the area of 32 lbs of grain. Not looking forward to 15 hours of toasting grain and unable to find an organic Mild malt(5-6L) I thought perhaps I would try light munich (10L) I know it will be a little darker but that is okay as long as it isn't roasty. So what do y'all say?

35lbs Munich 10L

mashed at 148 for 90-120 min (1.2qt/lb)
First runnings into kettle to boil for ~120 min with 5 oz of belgian goldings for the whole boil

mash capped with 1 lb crystal 40 (for a little added body/sweetness in small beer) for 20 min
run off into second kettle for normal 60 minute boil with
.25 oz goldings at 60,
2 oz goldings @ 20
2 oz @ 15
2 oz @10
2 oz @ 5
2 oz @ 0
2 oz DH

[denny]

I say it sounds good.  Be sure to mash for maximum fermentability.

[bonjour]

I say it sounds good.  Be sure to mash for maximum fermentability.

+1

[morticaixavier]

Cool. So for max fermentability I will go with 148 for 120 minutes?

[rabeb25]

Fyi, light munich is 4-8l while dark munich is 8-12l. This is from real German maltsters.

[morticaixavier]

Fyi, light munich is 4-8l while dark munich is 8-12l. This is from real German maltsters.

Ahh okay, well this will be great western munich which is listed at 10L. Trying to keep it as local as possible. Hard to find organic american grown goldings though. Guess I will just have to grow some.

[jaybeerman]

This is from real German maltsters.

i prefer to use the unreal german maltsters    seems like everyone has there own lovibond level for their light and dark munich.  i use them all depending on which beer style i'm making

[rabeb25]

Yea, no worries either way, just a tip.
cheers,
Bryan

[a10t2]

I recently brewed a partigyle Barleywine/small beer (bitter) using only pale ale malt that I 'toasted' in the over at 230f for 2 hours.

I'm curious about that beer. Did it convert normally? Was efficiency typical? Attenuation?

[euge]

To me Munich malt has a distinctive flavor. Even light. Not sure that I would call it roasty. More "malty".

[morticaixavier]

I recently brewed a partigyle Barleywine/small beer (bitter) using only pale ale malt that I 'toasted' in the over at 230f for 2 hours.

I'm curious about that beer. Did it convert normally? Was efficiency typical? Attenuation?

Well the small beer attenuated fine. From 1.034 to 1.008 in a week. Haven't tested the BW because I put 1 gallon in a 5 gallon carboy and my theif doesn't reach that far down.  . They both took off with less than 12 hours lag time and the BW showed krausen for about 1.5 weeks, it's quietly sitting with just a few bubbles on top now coming up on three weeks so I might go ahead and transfer to a 1 gallon jug for secondary soon, although I might wait and reuse the yeast when I am ready for this next brew.

I did tests on a small .25lb scale first to make sure I wasn't denaturing to many enzymes so I was fairly confident. Got a really nice deep red/brown color on the small beer although some of that is doubtlessly due to the carastan I capped the mash with.

To me Munich malt has a distinctive flavor. Even light. Not sure that I would call it roasty. More "malty".

Euge, This is exactly what I am after, a more malty flavour. I feel that is the defining characteristic of barley wine and what allows it to age so beutifully. Even after 5 oz of bittering hops it will still taste malty full bodied.

[denny]

Fyi, light munich is 4-8l while dark munich is 8-12l. This is from real German maltsters.

Ahh okay, well this will be great western munich which is listed at 10L. Trying to keep it as local as possible. Hard to find organic american grown goldings though. Guess I will just have to grow some.

GW Munich is a great choice IMO.  I actually prefer it to continental Munich for Am. style beers.

[rabeb25]

I think it could be said GW is  great in general, its my stocked American 2row as well.

[denny]

I think it could be said GW is  great in general, its my stocked American 2row as well.

I agree.  GW and Rahr are my go to domestic malts.

[morticaixavier]

I think it could be said GW is  great in general, its my stocked American 2row as well.

I agree.  GW and Rahr are my go to domestic malts.

That's good to know. Assuming the barley used by GW is grown reasonably close to the malt house it's only about 500-600 miles travel distance to me. closer by far than any other source.

At least until I get my barley patch planted... and harvested... and malted.