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Author Topic: Adding ball valve to brew kettle  (Read 13493 times)

Offline Joe Sr.

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Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« on: November 17, 2011, 08:47:57 am »
I'm thinking of adding a valve to my brew kettle.

The valve kits I see on-line go straight in to the kettle without any pick-up tube.  Can you add a pick up tube to draw from the very bottom of the kettle?

I don't see one at NB. Or Williams.  More Beer has one, but says it's for a keggle conversion.

Any suggestions on parts?  Thanks!

JOE
It's all in the reflexes. - Jack Burton

Offline Jimmy K

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Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2011, 09:14:04 am »
I did that and it works well. I also added a stainless braid to strain hops.



www.bargainfittings.com has a lot of options, including pickup tubes.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2011, 09:23:16 am by mtnrockhopper »
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narvin

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Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« Reply #2 on: November 17, 2011, 09:55:49 am »
I made my pickup tube out of copper tubing and used the weldless bulkhead that NB sells.  You'll need a 1/2" MPT  to compression fitting connector to connect the pipe.

Offline Slowbrew

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Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« Reply #3 on: November 17, 2011, 10:19:00 am »
I made my pickup tube out of copper tubing and used the weldless bulkhead that NB sells.  You'll need a 1/2" MPT  to compression fitting connector to connect the pipe.

How thick is the wall of your kettle?  I would love to add a valve to my kettle but am a bit nervous about drilling the hole because the wall seems so thin.  It appears to be 1mm or less thick and I'm not sure I could get a seal.

It's probably just my paranoia about drilling a hole in a $100+ piece of equipment.

Thanks!

Paul
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Offline stankonia

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Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« Reply #4 on: November 17, 2011, 10:32:26 am »
Bargain fittings has a nice copper pickup tube.

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=174

You can get everything you need from them.  Bulk head kit, and add a SS ball-valve for $11 (only $5 more than their brass valve)  Then the pickup tube will just screw into the coupling on the inside of the kettle. 

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=91


Don't be afraid of drilling.  Just get a step bit, go slow and use some kind of oil/lubricant.


Offline Slowbrew

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Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« Reply #5 on: November 17, 2011, 10:49:14 am »
Bargain fittings has a nice copper pickup tube.

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=174

You can get everything you need from them.  Bulk head kit, and add a SS ball-valve for $11 (only $5 more than their brass valve)  Then the pickup tube will just screw into the coupling on the inside of the kettle. 

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=91


Don't be afraid of drilling.  Just get a step bit, go slow and use some kind of oil/lubricant.



I'm definitely not afraid of drilling.  It's a paranoid fear of not sealing that I get hung up on.   ;D

I tend to over think on things like this.

Thanks for the encouragement!!!  I'd love to stop siphoning.

Paul
Where the heck are we going?  And what's with this hand basket?

narvin

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Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« Reply #6 on: November 17, 2011, 11:08:30 am »
I made my pickup tube out of copper tubing and used the weldless bulkhead that NB sells.  You'll need a 1/2" MPT  to compression fitting connector to connect the pipe.

How thick is the wall of your kettle?  I would love to add a valve to my kettle but am a bit nervous about drilling the hole because the wall seems so thin.  It appears to be 1mm or less thick and I'm not sure I could get a seal.

It's probably just my paranoia about drilling a hole in a $100+ piece of equipment.

Thanks!

Paul

The sidewalls aren't very thick on my pot.  It shouldn't matter, really.  The weldless fitting seals on the inside and you can crank the nut as tight as you need to regardless of how thick the walls are.

Offline Slowbrew

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Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« Reply #7 on: November 17, 2011, 11:12:25 am »
I made my pickup tube out of copper tubing and used the weldless bulkhead that NB sells.  You'll need a 1/2" MPT  to compression fitting connector to connect the pipe.

How thick is the wall of your kettle?  I would love to add a valve to my kettle but am a bit nervous about drilling the hole because the wall seems so thin.  It appears to be 1mm or less thick and I'm not sure I could get a seal.

It's probably just my paranoia about drilling a hole in a $100+ piece of equipment.

Thanks!

Paul

The sidewalls aren't very thick on my pot.  It shouldn't matter, really.  The weldless fitting seals on the inside and you can crank the nut as tight as you need to regardless of how thick the walls are.

Good to know.  I may be putting one on my list to Santa.

Paul
Where the heck are we going?  And what's with this hand basket?

Offline Joe Sr.

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Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« Reply #8 on: November 17, 2011, 11:23:46 am »
go slow and use some kind of oil/lubricant.

Good advice for many things...

I'll check out bargain fittings.  I, too, am tired of the siphon.  So tired, I gave it up and pour through a strainer.  Which I have also grown tired of.
It's all in the reflexes. - Jack Burton

Offline stankonia

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Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« Reply #9 on: November 18, 2011, 11:06:03 am »
Bargain fittings has a nice copper pickup tube.

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=174

You can get everything you need from them.  Bulk head kit, and add a SS ball-valve for $11 (only $5 more than their brass valve)  Then the pickup tube will just screw into the coupling on the inside of the kettle. 

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=91


Don't be afraid of drilling.  Just get a step bit, go slow and use some kind of oil/lubricant.



I'm definitely not afraid of drilling.  It's a paranoid fear of not sealing that I get hung up on.   ;D

I tend to over think on things like this.

Thanks for the encouragement!!!  I'd love to stop siphoning.

Paul

Yeah I know what  you mean.  I had a tiny leak in mine when I first drilled it.  I just put on more teflon tape and rubber gaskets on both sides of the kettle and it stopped it.

To mention BargainFittings again (I'm not getting paid! just recently bought a bunch of stuff from them).

They have another bulkhead kit that is designed a little differently and is meant to seal up slightly over-sized drill holes.  It has a washer soldered onto the nipple and uses a flat gasket on the outside.  The standard bulkhead kit uses round gaskets with a locknut.

I recently ordered 4 of these for my system, and none of them have leaked.



It's $5 more than the standard kind, but that's worth it for peace of mind.

You could get this bulk head + SS Ball valve + copper pickup tube for $41..I'm not sure what you're looking to spend, but that's not a bad deal.  No more sanitizing the siphon..just hook up a hose to the valve and open it.
« Last Edit: November 18, 2011, 11:31:12 am by stankonia »

Offline Joe Sr.

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Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« Reply #10 on: November 18, 2011, 11:37:40 am »
How low on the kettle have you drilled your holes?

I imagine you want to be as low as possible, but not too low.  Once inch above?
It's all in the reflexes. - Jack Burton

Offline euge

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Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« Reply #11 on: November 18, 2011, 12:06:04 pm »
I'm thinking of adding a valve to my brew kettle.

The valve kits I see on-line go straight in to the kettle without any pick-up tube.  Can you add a pick up tube to draw from the very bottom of the kettle?

I don't see one at NB. Or Williams.  More Beer has one, but says it's for a keggle conversion.

Any suggestions on parts?  Thanks!

JOE

Used the weldless KettleValveā„¢ Ball Valve (1/2"). It's about 3" up from the bottom because of fears that any lower the heat would melt the red rubber o-ring on the outside. Initially got bi-metallic corrosion on the inside so added a gasket to eliminate contact.

Drilling  is easy. Just be methodical. And you probably could go lower than 3".


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