[denny]

...Dry hop at the very end of fermentation helps to alleviate DO pick up but you can add them just about any time without any major problems. ...

How much does temperature matter? I bought a fridge last summer but it only holds one bucket. If I brew two batches in a day, I'll use Kviek on the room-temp batch (72-75F) and US-05 (or whatever) in the fridge around 65F. Should I bring the bucket out of the fridge for dry hopping or is that temp range just not enough to bother with "optimizing"?

For me personally I dry hop at fermentation temps (though I'm itching to try Denny's method at 34F soon). I haven't found any difference at temperature, warm or coolish. I've had great luck from high 50's to low 70's.

I try to dry hop right near the end of fermentation so that the yeast activity scrubs any o2 that may be introduced. I let the hops sit for a few days to let the beer clear up and avoid any potential issues with hop creep.

It doesn't take long for the beer to absorb the hop aroma and it doesn't take more than a few days for the hops to settle out.

I also think the short time is key.  According the the BSG paper, after 48 hours, you've extracted all that you're going to in terms of the stuff you want.  After that, the oils start getting reabsorbed.  The short time also limits expression of polyphenols.

I agree but it has to be practical as well. At Yellowhammer I would recirculate the hops in the tank over night then centrifuge the next day. For homebrew I usually let them sit for 3-5 days because of practicality.

Your voice, but short contact time plays as big a role as the temp

[majorvices]

Like I said,I don't disagree. Usually I try to time it so the beer is off the hops after 3 days. But if something comes up and I have to punt it I'm not going to stress. I had had amazing hop aroma after 3 hours of dry hopping. You don't have to convince me that time is an issue. But I'm not about to say a beer dry hopped for 5 days is sh!t either.

[denny]

Like I said,I don't disagree. Usually I try to time it so the beer is off the hops after 3 days. But if something comes up and I have to punt it I'm not going to stress. I had had amazing hop aroma after 3 hours of dry hopping. You don't have to convince me that time is an issue. But I'm not about to say a beer dry hopped for 5 days is sh!t either.

Agreed.  We're homebrewers after all!

[purduekenn]

I dry hop in primary at 35-38F for 2-3 days then keg the beer. I like the results better than warm dry hopping.

[Joe_Beer]

This is where all the info on the cold dry hopping is coming from.. plus experience of the homebrewers that have done it.

http://scottjanish.com/a-case-for-short-and-cool-dry-hopping/

I think I've run across that article before. Thanks for posting it. Just simply amazing information in there. I thought this was particularly interesting because I have Chit in the recipe I've been experimenting with but the added dextrins may not mix so well with dry hopping in the keg:

"This re-fermentation is now commonly referred to as hop creep. In particular, four different enzymes have found in hops (Amyloglucosidase, α-amylase, β-amylase, and limit dextrinase) and when active in beer with dextrins available can lead to re-fermentation. Why is hop creep a problem? If this re-fermentation happens after the yeast has been removed from the beer you can produce diacetyl from an unhealthy re-ferment. "

[Joe_Beer]

I dry hop in primary at 35-38F for 2-3 days then keg the beer. I like the results better than warm dry hopping.

I've really gotta give primary dry hopping a try then. I've not been getting the hop flavor and aromas that I'm looking for even after doubling the hop additions. I think part of it may be my water (got a test kit in the pipe with Wardlab). Really appreciate ya'll offering up so much helpful insight and experience.

[denny]

I dry hop in primary at 35-38F for 2-3 days then keg the beer. I like the results better than warm dry hopping.

I've really gotta give primary dry hopping a try then. I've not been getting the hop flavor and aromas that I'm looking for even after doubling the hop additions. I think part of it may be my water (got a test kit in the pipe with Wardlab). Really appreciate ya'll offering up so much helpful insight and experience.

I also prefer cold short dry hopping, but post fermentation.

[Joe_Beer]

I also prefer cold short dry hopping, but post fermentation.

From everything I've been reading lately, the "short" dry hopping seems to be the way things are evovling. They "5-7 day" immersion on so many recipes seems to be turning into an artifact of brewing lore.

I'm sure you've experimented with this in many different ways. What was the reason you went with post ferment instead of tossing the hops in the ferementer?

[goose]

Recently I learned some people dry hop in the fermenter, on the second day of fermentation, when the krausen is high. Not sure I can really do that in my buckets though. High krausen is usually nearly blowing the lid off and I don't think I'd want to open it up.

Curious, have you tried dry hopping in the fermenter? ... You should give it a try and see how you like it. The only way I will dry hop in a keg is if I'm trying to fix a beer.

Intriguing. I have not. I've read a lot of different schools of thought on opening the fermenter. Was never sure how much of a problem it really is.  I'd be game for trying it after the krausen drops I suppose. Is there any point in salvaging the yeast after tossing in 6oz of hops? I do seem to be accumulating extra yeast (on my fifth starter) off the same original pitch so could probably stand to toss some anyway.

In my experience it's not as much of a problem as homebrewers have been lead to believe.  Just be careful and limit exposure as much as possible, then don't worry about it.

If I am dry hopping in the fermenter (mind you, I am using conicals), I burp out the yeast that I want to reuse through the dump valve at the bottom of the conical before adding the dry hops.  That way i can keep the yeast a bit more pristine and free of hop particles.

If I am using a lot of dry hops, I went back to transferring the beer to a secondary (more precisely, a bright beer vessel) before adding the dry hops.  This keeeps me from plugging my racking arm in the conical.  I am looking at some mods that will allow me to use the conicals for heavily dry hopped beers and not plug my racking arm or inline screen when kegging directly from the fermenter.

[majorvices]

Recently I learned some people dry hop in the fermenter, on the second day of fermentation, when the krausen is high. Not sure I can really do that in my buckets though. High krausen is usually nearly blowing the lid off and I don't think I'd want to open it up.

Curious, have you tried dry hopping in the fermenter? ... You should give it a try and see how you like it. The only way I will dry hop in a keg is if I'm trying to fix a beer.

Intriguing. I have not. I've read a lot of different schools of thought on opening the fermenter. Was never sure how much of a problem it really is.  I'd be game for trying it after the krausen drops I suppose. Is there any point in salvaging the yeast after tossing in 6oz of hops? I do seem to be accumulating extra yeast (on my fifth starter) off the same original pitch so could probably stand to toss some anyway.

In my experience it's not as much of a problem as homebrewers have been lead to believe.  Just be careful and limit exposure as much as possible, then don't worry about it.

If I am dry hopping in the fermenter (mind you, I am using conicals), I burp out the yeast that I want to reuse through the dump valve at the bottom of the conical before adding the dry hops.  That way i can keep the yeast a bit more pristine and free of hop particles.

If I am using a lot of dry hops, I went back to transferring the beer to a secondary (more precisely, a bright beer vessel) before adding the dry hops.  This keeeps me from plugging my racking arm in the conical.  I am looking at some mods that will allow me to use the conicals for heavily dry hopped beers and not plug my racking arm or inline screen when kegging directly from the fermenter.

I imagine a floating racking arm would attach to your racking arm. That's probably what I would try in that situation.

[denny]

I also prefer cold short dry hopping, but post fermentation.

From everything I've been reading lately, the "short" dry hopping seems to be the way things are evovling. They "5-7 day" immersion on so many recipes seems to be turning into an artifact of brewing lore.

I'm sure you've experimented with this in many different ways. What was the reason you went with post ferment instead of tossing the hops in the ferementer?

I don't care for the uncertain effects of biotransformation.  I'm not worriedm aboutbO2 from the dry hops, which seems to be the latest bogey man for homebrewers.  I know what to expect, so I keep doing it.

[denny]

Recently I learned some people dry hop in the fermenter, on the second day of fermentation, when the krausen is high. Not sure I can really do that in my buckets though. High krausen is usually nearly blowing the lid off and I don't think I'd want to open it up.

Curious, have you tried dry hopping in the fermenter? ... You should give it a try and see how you like it. The only way I will dry hop in a keg is if I'm trying to fix a beer.

Intriguing. I have not. I've read a lot of different schools of thought on opening the fermenter. Was never sure how much of a problem it really is.  I'd be game for trying it after the krausen drops I suppose. Is there any point in salvaging the yeast after tossing in 6oz of hops? I do seem to be accumulating extra yeast (on my fifth starter) off the same original pitch so could probably stand to toss some anyway.

In my experience it's not as much of a problem as homebrewers have been lead to believe.  Just be careful and limit exposure as much as possible, then don't worry about it.

If I am dry hopping in the fermenter (mind you, I am using conicals), I burp out the yeast that I want to reuse through the dump valve at the bottom of the conical before adding the dry hops.  That way i can keep the yeast a bit more pristine and free of hop particles.

If I am using a lot of dry hops, I went back to transferring the beer to a secondary (more precisely, a bright beer vessel) before adding the dry hops.  This keeeps me from plugging my racking arm in the conical.  I am looking at some mods that will allow me to use the conicals for heavily dry hopped beers and not plug my racking arm or inline screen when kegging directly from the fermenter.

Another reason I love the GF conicals.  Never had an issue like that.

[allenhuerta]

I'm not worried about O2 from the dry hops, which seems to be the latest bogey man for homebrewers.

Yeah, I've been wondering, why/when did everyone get so brash over oxidation? I feel a lot are over worried.. I mean, I do closed transfers and all that but between when I went to Europe in 2015 and came back in 2019 it seemed to be the biggest thing in the world. A lot of people act like they are oversensitive to it.. tasting it in 2 day old beers. I've even had some complain about oxidation in beers that were years old and I'm just wondering why are you drinking styles you know were aged and complaining?

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

[majorvices]

I'm not worried about O2 from the dry hops, which seems to be the latest bogey man for homebrewers.

Yeah, I've been wondering, why/when did everyone get so brash over oxidation? I feel a lot are over worried.. I mean, I do closed transfers and all that but between when I went to Europe in 2015 and came back in 2019 it seemed to be the biggest thing in the world. A lot of people act like they are oversensitive to it.. tasting it in 2 day old beers. I've even had some complain about oxidation in beers that were years old and I'm just wondering why are you drinking styles you know were aged and complaining?

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

From my own experience: Dry hopping has caused some diacetyl in some beers. Wether this was a cause of hop creep or from the oxidation is impossible to determine now (since oxidation can cause diacetyl to reform to put it simply).

I've not used an unpurged secondary or corny keg in probably 15 or more years. Personally I think things like racking should be "minimalized" not avoided. Anytime you dry hop or rack you should keep in mind the possible oxygen pick up and minimize it. It shouldn't be a handicap though.

[denny]

I'm not worried about O2 from the dry hops, which seems to be the latest bogey man for homebrewers.

Yeah, I've been wondering, why/when did everyone get so brash over oxidation? I feel a lot are over worried.. I mean, I do closed transfers and all that but between when I went to Europe in 2015 and came back in 2019 it seemed to be the biggest thing in the world. A lot of people act like they are oversensitive to it.. tasting it in 2 day old beers. I've even had some complain about oxidation in beers that were years old and I'm just wondering why are you drinking styles you know were aged and complaining?

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

From my own experience: Dry hopping has caused some diacetyl in some beers. Wether this was a cause of hop creep or from the oxidation is impossible to determine now (since oxidation can cause diacetyl to reform to put it simply).

I've not used an unpurged secondary or corny keg in probably 15 or more years. Personally I think things like racking should be "minimalized" not avoided. Anytime you dry hop or rack you should keep in mind the possible oxygen pick up and minimize it. It shouldn't be a handicap though.

I have never had hop creep, even when I tried to make it happen on 3 different brews.  I think it's because of my practice of waiting for fermentation to finish and cold crashing before dry hopping.  It's as if the worries about O2 made people start dry hopping before the end of fermentwwtion, which created its own issues.