[nvshooter2276]

Some of the mr. beer pre-hopped syrups come in 1.86-pound cans and are to be used with a volume of water bringing the total fermented volume to 2.125 gallons. 1.87 pounds of syrup divided by 2.125 gallons of water equals 0.88 pounds of syrup per gallon. If you were to use two gallons of water instead of 2.125, you'd get a dilution of 0.935 pounds per gallon. 0.935/0.88 = 1.0625; which is 6.25% "heavier" than what mr. beer states in their instructions for making the beer. Would you taste a fuller, more malty beer? One with a better mouthfeel? One with a thicker, longer-lasting head? I'll add one foilpack of Brewmax Booster and one softpack of unhopped Robust LME to what will finally go into my fermentation vessel. If I ferment two cans, I'd use one foilpack and two softpacks of Robust. I'm concerned that two foilpacks would be too much of an artificial boosting of the ABV in such a small volume (four gallons), so one is the limit. I'm concerned I'd get some sort of sour taste or something that would not be "malty enough" for a Porter or for an American Ale, both syrups coming from mr. beer.

[erockrph]

In my experience, the Mr Beer LME is actually quite good. I occasionally buy kits if I find them on clearance at big box stores after Christmas and the price is right. The only thing I generally do to doctor them up is to add some hops at flameout to get a better hop character, and possibly use a different yeast. If you wanted a bit more malt character, you could steep some grains as you heat your water.

[nvshooter2276]

The only thing I generally do to doctor them up is to add some hops at flameout to get a better hop character, and possibly use a different yeast. If you wanted a bit more malt character, you could steep some grains as you heat your water.

I could add some hops, once I get my custom-built hop spider made and shipped. I'm having one made that's four inches in diameter by sixteen inches long; screen size is 300 microns. I'm having the horizontal portion of the "hanging fingers" extended such that I can fit a 3/4" dowel under them and between the outer periphery of the diameter. This is so I can use the spider to stir the wort. If I knew how to post-up a picture, I would. I have tried in the past and was met with a Hindenburg-level disaster. The vertical portion of the fingers will be five inches long so that the thang will hang securely over the brim of the kettle (which is seventeen inches deep) and not fall into the wort if I don't have the dowel in-place. The hop spider is being made by ArborFab (www.arborfab.com); price is a ridiculously low seventy bucks. ArborFab makes several hop spiders (they call them "beer filters") in different lengths and diameters. The gentleman with whom I dealt was knowledgeable about hop spiders and very patient while I sorted-out exactly what I wanted to be made. They are made of tasty 304 stainless steel...

Back to my mr. beer concerns...

I never use the yeast that comes with the mr. beer tins. I always use Safale US-05; the entire eleven grams. Why skimp? The stuff is cheap and the yeast love to eat sugar. Keep the little buggers happy, eh?

Which grains would I want to steep in my heating-up water? I have American Porter and American Ale in 1.87-pound cans. I have Northwest Pale Ale and Diablo IPA in 2.86-pound cans. My philosophy is to make them with nothing special added; just make per the original directions and see what I get. If I want more hoppiness, I can add a little come the next batch. I'll have a hop spider as deep as my kettle with which to do it...

[erockrph]

For 2 gallons of porter, I'd probably steep maybe an ounce of chocolate or pale chocolate malt along with maybe 4 ounces of a medium crystal like C-60. For the American Ale, I'd use maybe 4 ounces of a lighter crystal like C-20. I usually throw the grain bag into the water as it's heating up, and pull the grains out when the temp hits 170F.

[nvshooter2276]

... ... once I get my custom-built hop spider made and shipped. I'm having one made that's four inches in diameter by sixteen inches long; screen size is 300 microns. I'm having the horizontal portion of the "hanging fingers" extended such that I can fit a 3/4" dowel under them and between the outer periphery of the diameter. This is so I can use the spider to stir the wort. The vertical portion of the fingers will be five inches long so that the thang will hang securely over the brim of the kettle (which is seventeen inches deep) and not fall into the wort if I don't have the dowel in-place. The hop spider is being made by ArborFab (www.arborfab.com); price is a ridiculously low seventy bucks. ArborFab makes several hop spiders (they call them "beer filters") in different lengths and diameters.

Sent a "Contact note" to them today to go ahead and begin fabrication. I expect to get it by March 31. Only God knows when I will ever get to use it. Driving for FedEx Ground pays obscenely-well, but leaves zero time to enjoy the finer things in life-- like making beer at home...

[nvshooter2276]

I could add some hops, once I get my custom-built hop spider made and shipped. I'm having one made that's four inches in diameter by sixteen inches long; screen size is 300 microns. . .

The invoice was in my email, today. Paid it and I suspect that fabrication will begin March 11.