[HiImBrian]

I picked up all of the necessary parts required to put together a new mash tun and when I went to install everything the ball valve handle hits the cooler and will not close all the way. It looks like the Home Depot cooler has a bit more of an indent than the Lowes cooler, so I was going to exchange tonight and try again. Has anybody else experienced this? Sure I could add fittings to extend the ball valve, but I like fewer parts if at all possible.

[Slowbrew]

The ball valve on my cooler barely closes with the handle level.  I just turned the valve so its handle could swing back under the bottom edge of the cooler.  It has worked like that for years.

Paul

[reverseapachemaster]

That sounds like a very easy fix for the problem.

[HiImBrian]

The ball valve on my cooler barely closes with the handle level.  I just turned the valve so its handle could swing back under the bottom edge of the cooler.  It has worked like that for years.

Paul

Then you'd have to hang the MLT over the end of a counter or ledge or something though right?

[denny]

Believe it or not, I found that using a ball valve reduced the performance of my cooler.  That's why I've stuck with a simple nylon gate valve all these years.

[erockrph]

I used some metal washers as spacers for mine.

[HoosierBrew]

I used some metal washers as spacers for mine.

+1

[Slowbrew]

The ball valve on my cooler barely closes with the handle level.  I just turned the valve so its handle could swing back under the bottom edge of the cooler.  It has worked like that for years.

Paul

Then you'd have to hang the MLT over the end of a counter or ledge or something though right?

Yes. 

I use a narrow folding table for my brewing table anyway so both ends hang over the edge.

Paul

[Hokerer]

Another option is to forego the ball valve altogether.  I just have the tubing come directly out of the cooler and I tuck the end of the tubing up into the handle on the cooler.  When I want to drain, all I have to do is to lower the tubing into the kettle.  To stop, lift the hose up again.  Easy peasy.

[Stevie]

Another option is to forego the ball valve altogether.  I just have the tubing come directly out of the cooler and I tuck the end of the tubing up into the handle on the cooler.  When I want to drain, all I have to do is to lower the tubing into the kettle.  To stop, lift the hose up again.  Easy peasy.

Easy peasy until you turn your back and Murphy's law bites you in the butt.

[morticaixavier]

Another option is to forego the ball valve altogether.  I just have the tubing come directly out of the cooler and I tuck the end of the tubing up into the handle on the cooler.  When I want to drain, all I have to do is to lower the tubing into the kettle.  To stop, lift the hose up again.  Easy peasy.

this is what I do too. never (knock on wood) had a problem yet. I don't see it as any more likely to cause a problem than forgetting to close the ball valve.

[HydraulicSammich]

I had the same problem.  I gently heated the cooler exterior plastic and pushed the ball valve handle in.  It sized perfectly and has worked for years.

[denny]

See that little white valve there?  Costs $1.79 and is the perfect compromise between no valve and a SS ball valve.

[archstanton]

Since I already had the valve, I just unscrewed the lever and cut an inch off of it and it fits with room to spare. Problem solved.

[HiImBrian]

Believe it or not, I found that using a ball valve reduced the performance of my cooler.  That's why I've stuck with a simple nylon gate valve all these years.

Reduced the performance in what way?