[bbump22]

When carbonating my beer, I keep the temp at 38 degrees and adjust the PSI level to 10.  I will give it at least a week or so, before serving.  When it comes time to serve, it seems like if I don't bleed the keg for each beer I pour, then the beer I pour is almost all head.  Even after I bleed the keg, pour (No problem if I pour immediately after I bleed), wait 10 minutes and pour another beer, I get the same result.  This just doesn't seem right to me...After speaking with the owener of keg connections, I know that my lines are not too long and I have a fan blowing cold air up into the tower to keep the lines at the top cold.  Should I be lowering the PSI when I serve it?

Thanks for any help you can offer. 

[a10t2]

How long are your lines, and what diameter?

[bbump22]

How long are your lines, and what diameter?

5 ft and 3/16 in diameter.

[dak0415]

Check this out!

http://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/resistive-gate-draft-beer-flow-control

Dave

[bluesman]

This is the best resource available. IMHO

http://www.draughtquality.org/f/DBQM_Full.pdf

[rjharper]

I've always been a little skeptical of the 2lb per foot pressure drop advertised on 3/16" tubing.  I run 9' lines, and keep my system at 13 psi and 38F.  I have nicely carbed beers and no foam issues (apart from the line beer if its been a while).

[zee]

Check this out!

http://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/resistive-gate-draft-beer-flow-control

Dave

i've been monitoring a bunch of epoxy nozzle tip threads for a while now. rather than putting them inline like this, you can actually just put them in your dip tube, as they slide right in. apparently they work wonders.

BUT

the problem that many threads run into is that these are not certified food safe. a number of people have contacted mcmaster carr, who [smartly] refuses to say anything about the potential hazards of having these things in contact with your beer. they simply say they weren't designed to be food safe, any contact with food is at your own risk. additionally, even if they are made of something benign like hdpe, if they aren't made specifically as food grade hdpe, all bets are off.

you have to consider that every drop of your beer will be in contact with these things, and that alcohol acts as a solvent, leaching out nasty stuff even faster than water will.

[bbump22]

Check this out!

http://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/resistive-gate-draft-beer-flow-control

Dave

i've been monitoring a bunch of epoxy nozzle tip threads for a while now. rather than putting them inline like this, you can actually just put them in your dip tube, as they slide right in. apparently they work wonders.

BUT

the problem that many threads run into is that these are not certified food safe. a number of people have contacted mcmaster carr, who [smartly] refuses to say anything about the potential hazards of having these things in contact with your beer. they simply say they weren't designed to be food safe, any contact with food is at your own risk. additionally, even if they are made of something benign like hdpe, if they aren't made specifically as food grade hdpe, all bets are off.

you have to consider that every drop of your beer will be in contact with these things, and that alcohol acts as a solvent, leaching out nasty stuff even faster than water will.

great idea, but it sounds like it might not be worth the risk, IMHO.

[mainebrewer]

In my setup I find that 7 foot beer lines at 10 PSI works well.
I get a bit of a slow pour and about a half inch of foam in a pint glass of beer.

[zee]

In my setup I find that 7 foot beer lines at 10 PSI works well.
I get a bit of a slow pour and about a half inch of foam in a pint glass of beer.

a balanced system requires a number of things:

* temperature
* pressure
* height of tap from center of keg
* line inner diameter
* line length

without knowing ALL of these things you cannot balance your system, so all these posts [sorry to single you out mainebrewer] with just a line length and psi are useless.

[rjharper]

a balanced system requires a number of things:

* temperature
* pressure
* height of tap from center of keg
* line inner diameter
* line length

without knowing ALL of these things you cannot balance your system, so all these posts [sorry to single you out mainebrewer] with just a line length and psi are useless.

to keep zee happy ,

temp = 38F +/- 2F
pressure = 13psi
height = 18"
inner dia = 3/16"
length = 9'

[mainebrewer]

Zee, no problem, my response was lacking in detail but was based on the assumption that most people use corny kegs, 3/16" tubing and 38-40 degree temps.
For the record, my setup is:
7' 3/16 tubing,
whatever height a corny is (25"?).
38-40 degreees,
10-11 PSI

[bbump22]

In my setup I find that 7 foot beer lines at 10 PSI works well.
I get a bit of a slow pour and about a half inch of foam in a pint glass of beer.

a balanced system requires a number of things:

* temperature
* pressure
* height of tap from center of keg
* line inner diameter
* line length

without knowing ALL of these things you cannot balance your system, so all these posts [sorry to single you out mainebrewer] with just a line length and psi are useless.

How does the height of tap from center of keg play a role?

[a10t2]

How does the height of tap from center of keg play a role?

Hydrostatic (beerostatic?) pressure will drop about 0.4 psi for every foot the beer has to rise. It's per foot above the level of the beer, so using the center of the keg gives you an average.

[micsager]

When carbonating my beer, I keep the temp at 38 degrees and adjust the PSI level to 10.  I will give it at least a week or so, before serving.  When it comes time to serve, it seems like if I don't bleed the keg for each beer I pour, then the beer I pour is almost all head.  Even after I bleed the keg, pour (No problem if I pour immediately after I bleed), wait 10 minutes and pour another beer, I get the same result.  This just doesn't seem right to me...After speaking with the owener of keg connections, I know that my lines are not too long and I have a fan blowing cold air up into the tower to keep the lines at the top cold.  Should I be lowering the PSI when I serve it?

Thanks for any help you can offer. 

10 psi to push seems high to me for C02.  I push with beer gas.  And set that at 10psi.