To me, "clean" means that you don't know the yeast is there--all you get is the malt and hop character. No fruitiness, no phenols, no sulfur, or any of the other things that yeast might throw off. It is somewhat strain dependent (e.g., a Belgian ale vs. a Chico strain), but also technique dependent (e.g., a lager yeast fermented at 50 degrees versus 75 degrees).
My "stereotype" of a clean yeast strain would be Diamond Lager fermented at 50 degrees and given the appropriate amount of lagering afterwards. A non-clean example would be Belgian Abbaye fermented at 80 degrees.
By your definition, no ale yeast is clean, right?
Because, all of them will show a yeast character vs. a lager yeast.
Not disagreeing but confirming :-)
I think there is a big degree of subjectivity there. I do find some ale yeasts to be quite clean in the right conditions and recipe. My palate probably isn't the most refined, of course, but I find BRY-97 in an American IPA fermented at 66 degrees to be very clean.
Of course, I think there are far more clean lager strains than clean ale strains!
I can't speak for Andy, but since the rabbit hole opened up I'm going to jump in...
How are we defining a lager yeast versus an ale yeast? Even now that the yeast genome has been sequenced, there is still a lot of gray area here. Yeasts that have long been considered (and are still marketed as) lager yeasts have mapped as ale yeasts. If they produce beer that tastes like one would expect a lager to taste, is it now no longer a lager just because of the genome?
Is it the presence of specific compounds? Is it only if they appear above a certain threshold?
To me, it is the overall impression of the beer. I have brewed my pilsner recipe using WY1762 (Abby II - widely assumed to be the Rochefort strain) a couple of times now. When I pitch at my usual lager rates, ferment cold, then cold-condition, it produces a beer that tastes like a Pilsner. I don't know what spikes you'd see under HPLC analysis, and I don't think that strain would sequence as
S. pastorianus, but the beer it makes under those conditions tastes like a lager to me.
To me, a clean beer is one that has a low ester character, no detectable phenolics, and no noticeable fusels. My tolerance for "low ester" may indeed vary depending on the style. It's definitely subjective, but when it comes to beer I prefer to define things by how its tastes & smells, rather than process/ingredients. It's about what's in the glass to me, in the end.