[klickitat jim]

I liked the article because he points out the progression of oxidation flavors. Last year I posted on oxidation and how it comes off as a sliding scale from paper to soy sauce and was promptly dismissed. No, its cardboard. Sometimes it just takes a while... eventually someone with authority on the subject will come along and settle it.

How oxidation presents itself depends on what got oxidized and how much time has passed.

[hopfenundmalz]

I close transfer all my beers from primary into a keg just like Amanda does.  Easy to do, and I only use 2 psi to push.  It does take a bit more time, but it gives me peace of mind knowing that I have done all I can do minimize oxygen pickup. 

PS- I cannot stand oxidation in a beer and employed this method because of it.

There may be perks to learning the ins and outs of beer judging... but being excessively anal retentive about my beer is probably not one of them. Oh well. Or maybe it is. Who knows.

I'm even using kegs as "bottling buckets" for when we bottle condition a beer. Purge the keg, add sugar solution (and potentially re-yeast as well), closed transfer from fermenter into keg, seal keg, flush keg again, hook up BeerGun, flush bottles with CO2, fill bottle with beer, add a touch more CO2 on top, and then cap with an O2 barrier cap. Repeat. Sounds complicated, but it's actually pretty easy and it's quicker than bottling via gravity. We don't own a bottling bucket anymore, so this was my no-cost solution to wanting to bottle some beers again.

I am stealing that technique! Thanks Amanda. Why didn't I think of that?

[hopfenundmalz]

Oxidation is a much bigger problem short term for beers like IPA than most other style. Hop oils oxidize very quickly. But if you drink them in a month or maybe even two it probably won't be an issue. But if you are going to be keeping them long term you certainly want to minimize oxidation as much as possible. I recently went so far as to change the way I dry hop (using a purged vessel to hold hops and push into fermentor) and it has added remarkable shelf life stability to my IPA.

A hop cannon?

I have done a couple of beers going keg to keg using the hop rocket as a torpedo. I liked how that worked. Everything was Co2 purged. If more aroma was desired, do another pass through the hop rocket.

[hopfenundmalz]

I liked the article because he points out the progression of oxidation flavors. Last year I posted on oxidation and how it comes off as a sliding scale from paper to soy sauce and was promptly dismissed. No, its cardboard. Sometimes it just takes a while... eventually someone with authority on the subject will come along and settle it.

How oxidation presents itself depends on what got oxidized and how much time has passed.

Oxidation has many ways of rearing its head. I agree that it depends on the beer as to what you get in the stages.

[Phil_M]

Here's something that bothers me...what about "good" oxidation? I know some styles, British ones in particular, allow for a little oxidation. Isn't that part of what makes a good cellarman important in a pub that serves cask ale? (This is in line with Jim's continuum statement-serve the beer when the oxidation/maturation/etc is "peak")
I know some German breweries use practices that contribute to some oxidation as well.

Certainly such ideas would be terrible to apply to an American IPA. But at the same time I feel some breweries are "fixing" an oxidation problem that doesn't exist in some styles.

[Joe Sr.]

Still love my autosiphon, but someday I'll probably get one of those Brew Bucket things from SS Brewtech. A friend of mine just got one because he hates even dealing with an autosiphon. I think he'll like it.

I didn't even know autosiphons existed until a couple years ago.  To my knowledge, they weren't around in the 90s when I started brewing.  Or if they were I was simply unaware.

I always started the siphon by filling the line with water and draining it.  A total PITA.

[HoosierBrew]

I didn't even know autosiphons existed until a couple years ago.  To my knowledge, they weren't around in the 90s when I started brewing.  Or if they were I was simply unaware.

They weren't around back then when I started. That was 92/93-ish.

[Wort-H.O.G.]

I didn't even know autosiphons existed until a couple years ago.  To my knowledge, they weren't around in the 90s when I started brewing.  Or if they were I was simply unaware.

They weren't around back then when I started. That was 92/93-ish.

the internet was barely around back then   

[Joe Sr.]

I didn't even know autosiphons existed until a couple years ago.  To my knowledge, they weren't around in the 90s when I started brewing.  Or if they were I was simply unaware.

They weren't around back then when I started. That was 92/93-ish.

the internet was barely around back then   

If you had 1200 baud you were rocking it.

[Pinski]

I always started the siphon by filling the line with water and draining it.  A total PITA.

Those were the days! Man I hated that.

[HoosierBrew]

I didn't even know autosiphons existed until a couple years ago.  To my knowledge, they weren't around in the 90s when I started brewing.  Or if they were I was simply unaware.

They weren't around back then when I started. That was 92/93-ish.

the internet was barely around back then   

Yeah, barely !  It was a little more of a challenge to get good info. 

[rodwha]

Ha ha!

I'd have to pump several times which seemed to aerate it, and still noticed an air bubble where the hose attaches to the cane that slowly filled. And upon ending it gurgled a lot. This was the only thing that made sense to me.

If you chill your beer down first prior to racking it with an autosiphon setup, you will not have that tiny bubble issue in between the tubing and racking cane.  The cold seems to contract the plastic better making a tighter seal, at least IME.

And, you can also use a tubing clip to pinch off your flow so you don't get any extra gurgling oxygen bubbles coming through your siphon into your packaging. I used both of these methods prior to close transfering via CO2 into my kegs with good success.

Thanks for the info! I shall give this a try on Monday when I bottle next. Is the temp of my chamber (64*) enough of a chill? If it is I figured I'd put it in there the evening prior to bottling.

[norcaljp]

Using an autosiphon looks way easier than that set up. Using the spigot on a Speidel even easier.

I got a speidel for Christmas and kegged my first batch fermented in it this past Saturday. Boy, was it easier! I purged my keg with CO2 first.  Only problem is I then dry hopped.  Guess I will add my dry hops first, then purge next time.

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+1

I love the ability to just drain via a spigot, no siphon to worry about. For my hoppy beer's I try and purge the tubing with C02 as well as the keg, haven't had a problem, but then again haven't had 5 gallons of hoppy beer last more than 3 months and usually shorter.

[RPIScotty]

One of the reasons I really like my Brew Demon plastic conical is the spigot.


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[rodwha]

Prior to me doing a better job at getting the siphon going I considered fermenting in bottling buckets and using tubing to keep aeration from happening.