[Village Taphouse]

Mr. Tommyknocker seems to be enjoying it!    Looks great. 

[goose]

Tapped my wee Heavy called, "A Wee Bit Heavy".  Came out really good at 8% ABV.

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[beerphilmcd]

It’s not a lot to look at but my god am I proud of it!!!! I’ve often struggled with bigger beers particularly barleywine but nailed it with this agave nectar influenced 15.5% beer. First 7 oz bottle and it’s great right now even though I designed it to be laid down and enjoyed across a decade.



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[Village Taphouse]

It’s not a lot to look at but my god am I proud of it!!!! I’ve often struggled with bigger beers particularly barleywine but nailed it with this agave nectar influenced 15.5% beer. First 7 oz bottle and it’s great right now even though I designed it to be laid down and enjoyed across a decade.

Well done.  Congrats on making a beer you're so happy with. 

[HopDen]

2nd go at a English Bitter. Needs a touch more color in my opinion and a few more weeks of clearing. Overall I am happy with it!


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[HopDen]

Czech Pilsner, this is my favorite beer to make, share and drink! It has a permanent tap!


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[Village Taphouse]

Gold Lager with Edelweiss and 2124 tonight while watching the World Series.  GO CUBS! 

[beersk]

Gold Lager with Edelweiss and 2124 tonight while watching the World Series.  GO CUBS! 

Ha! Down with the Cheatstros!

Very tasty looking beer.

[Village Taphouse]

Last batch of my Cabana Lager for 2021.  Pilsner, Vienna, Flaked Corn, Liberty hops, Omega 113.  This is the first glass from the keg so some recent changes I made (thanks to Brewbama) are really working with regard to clarity.

[allenhuerta]

Last batch of my Cabana Lager for 2021.  Pilsner, Vienna, Flaked Corn, Liberty hops, Omega 113.  This is the first glass from the keg so some recent changes I made (thanks to Brewbama) are really working with regard to clarity.

That's pretty as hell! Now I'm curious what you were told to make that first class so clean.

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[Village Taphouse]

That's pretty as hell! Now I'm curious what you were told to make that first class so clean.

The first part was just getting strike water to a pH of about 5.5 prior to the mash.  I believe that I may have been mashing at a lower-than-desired pH for awhile.  I am also making an acid adjustment in the kettle with about 10 minutes left and right before whirfloc would be added.  I also scrapped some things like BTB and the trifecta mix suggested by the LO brewers.  Lastly, I had a product by Cellar Science called Clearzyme which is added when you pitch.  I used it on 8-10 batches and did not see a difference so I discontinued it but that was all before these other changes.  My guess is that Clearzyme is helping now that those other changes have been although I don't know that for sure.  Quite a few of my latest beers are coming out really nice flavor-wise and clarity-wise.  Cheers allenhuerta. 

[BrewBama]

When it all works it’s worth it. Good looking beer Ken.



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[beersk]

That's a very nice looking beer, Ken. Lately, I've been mashing at a room temp pH of 5.5 or so, and for light styles adding 1-2mL of lactic acid near the end of the boil. I'm curious to see what differences, if any, I get on my beers. Also, going forward I don't think I'll use Brewtan B anymore either as I have all stainless contact. For what it's worth, I hadn't used it in the boil for the last few years. Just never thought it did anything beneficial.

[Village Taphouse]

That's a very nice looking beer, Ken. Lately, I've been mashing at a room temp pH of 5.5 or so, and for light styles adding 1-2mL of lactic acid near the end of the boil. I'm curious to see what differences, if any, I get on my beers. Also, going forward I don't think I'll use Brewtan B anymore either as I have all stainless contact. For what it's worth, I hadn't used it in the boil for the last few years. Just never thought it did anything beneficial.

In some of the threads I started regarding mash pH, boil intensity, beer clarity, etc., I was trying to determine if there were things I could do that would be more likely to create a haze in beer that I could not get rid of.  Mashing at a pH that was too high or low, a low boil intensity, etc.  I too have been getting the mash pH to a room temp number of 5.4 to 5.5 which should translate to about 5.2 to 5.3 at mash temp.  This seems to be working well in terms of clarity and I believe that this is a good spot to be for the majority of the boil.  Could boiling at a too-low pH cause haze issues?  Dunno.  But it seems that finings like Whirfloc work better at a slightly lower pH so I have been adding 1 to 1.5ml of acid with about 10 minutes left in the boil.  The other part of the "simplification" routine was to hold darker malts until the end of the mash so they don't futz with mash pH.  To be clear, this might be 1-2 ounces of carafa or MW, etc.  If I have higher amounts of something like Special B or British Crystal, I do add those to the mash but I don't make many beers like that.  If I had 8-12 ounces of CaraMunich or maybe CaraVienne, I mash those for the entire mash time.  The couple beers where I held the darker malts until the end of the mash came out really well.  I got color and flavor from those malts but the pH was where it should be.  Cheers.

[beersk]

That's a very nice looking beer, Ken. Lately, I've been mashing at a room temp pH of 5.5 or so, and for light styles adding 1-2mL of lactic acid near the end of the boil. I'm curious to see what differences, if any, I get on my beers. Also, going forward I don't think I'll use Brewtan B anymore either as I have all stainless contact. For what it's worth, I hadn't used it in the boil for the last few years. Just never thought it did anything beneficial.

In some of the threads I started regarding mash pH, boil intensity, beer clarity, etc., I was trying to determine if there were things I could do that would be more likely to create a haze in beer that I could not get rid of.  Mashing at a pH that was too high or low, a low boil intensity, etc.  I too have been getting the mash pH to a room temp number of 5.4 to 5.5 which should translate to about 5.2 to 5.3 at mash temp.  This seems to be working well in terms of clarity and I believe that this is a good spot to be for the majority of the boil.  Could boiling at a too-low pH cause haze issues?  Dunno.  But it seems that finings like Whirfloc work better at a slightly lower pH so I have been adding 1 to 1.5ml of acid with about 10 minutes left in the boil.  The other part of the "simplification" routine was to hold darker malts until the end of the mash so they don't futz with mash pH.  To be clear, this might be 1-2 ounces of carafa or MW, etc.  If I have higher amounts of something like Special B or British Crystal, I do add those to the mash but I don't make many beers like that.  If I had 8-12 ounces of CaraMunich or maybe CaraVienne, I mash those for the entire mash time.  The couple beers where I held the darker malts until the end of the mash came out really well.  I got color and flavor from those malts but the pH was where it should be.  Cheers.

Ken, it sounds like we're both on the same track. Plugging things into Bru'n Water, not a lot of grists really need a pH adjustment DOWN. Most of the time they need to be adjusted UP for anything darker than maybe 7 or 8 SRM to get to that 5.5 room temp pH. So that kind of takes a bit of the stress of adding acid to the water a bit for me. I don't adjust my brewing down before mashing. I just use RO and minerals.

How long does a typical keg of beer last you on tap? Just curious.